ITGuy's 2003 Sierra 1500/2500 4x4 RCLB Build Thread

Well a lot of this is basic / boring stuff for a lot of you. I don't go into too much detail, but there is quite a bit if I wanted to do step by step.

It's easy to search Cognito Idler Arm Assembly and pull the instructions though.
it just made sense considering I had to strip down the steering components anyway for the lift.

I'll have some pics tomorrow of the cleaned up gusset painted and ready to go.
 
Ordered
Cognito 2" Leveling Keys
TBAK6_19.jpg


And

Cognito 1" Lift Block. This will help me adjust the rear if I want some lean, or riding level @ 5"
COG%20BLOCK-S1-2.jpg


forgot to grab these with my other order... oh well. Hope they combine shipping.
 
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Just read through the last 12 pages of build thread. Truck is going to be sweet!!! I love how you used quality parts, and are doing it all, the first time!! Keep up the good work!
 
I will call when they open. Technology challenged.

Oh and I will not be going with Cognito Traction Bars. I think I want something very subtle.
Don't need massive ladders under the rear of truck. I suppose the economy one is a bit more my style.
Still on the fence .. not a big item though and won't slow the build down.

Just going through my list and making sure I have everything to finish the build. Missed a few things.
 
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not sure if they work well on lifted trucks but cal-tracs are supposed to be the best and most hidden traction bar.

the reason traction bars are so long and big is that people like to keep their suspension travel, so they make them equal to the drive shaft angle so it doesn't limit their suspension rotation angle.
 
I've always read that traction bars have to be the same angle as your driveshaft, other wise it causes bad juju under there. So 60" bars are usually used on short beds, and longer ones on long beds. No matter what traction bars will stiffen the ride over stock, but when you start adding blocks, then traction bars really help to limit the axle wrap associated with daily driving and can save your rear u-joint from un-needed stress
 
I've always read that traction bars have to be the same angle as your driveshaft, other wise it causes bad juju under there. So 60" bars are usually used on short beds, and longer ones on long beds. No matter what traction bars will stiffen the ride over stock, but when you start adding blocks, then traction bars really help to limit the axle wrap associated with daily driving and can save your rear u-joint from un-needed stress

also help keep the slip-joke from bottoming out into your trans which could result you out put shaft to snap in your trans IIRC
 
Gusset Finished. Ground down the welds, real hard to get to so a little lumpy.
Sprayed rust stop on it and then slathered my frame primer over it (copper / rust colored stuff)
gusset_zpsec0e60ac.jpg


Cleaned up a few other spots. Still need to remove UCA and prime the mounts, but got a bit done tonight.
Waiting for parts to arrive anyway!

It takes 24hrs to cure, then I can topcoat.
IMG_20140828_192535699_zpseiu6i06r.jpg


This will all be flat black when finished. Just coating the areas that will see the most wear and tear.
Easy to clean while still wet, but when it dries it's a beast to get off. After it gets top coated. it's like armor for your frame.

Just a progress pic. I've got both sides and undersides done back to the cab mounts. Working on coating the cross members and getting into all the little grooves and corners.
 
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