ITGuy's 2003 Sierra 1500/2500 4x4 RCLB Build Thread

Yep. I'll get there eventually. Cranking t-bars now.
Goal is to have them basically sitting on the stops once they are installed.

I'll lift & level the front end once everything is together. I didn't take an initial measurement just because of the new front end.
Least of my worries at the moment :crossarms:
 
IMG_20140919_171403062_zpsurtkzj9k.jpg


Here are pics of the tbars + cognito keys unloaded. I have not sanded / painted this half of the truck :down:
IMG_20140919_195243304_zps4dtpwrzd.jpg


IMG_20140919_195248628_zpsoixtldse.jpg


I lost my socket for the torsion tool so I had to stop for the moment.
 
Last edited:
Looks right for lift keys on a 2500, should be able to load those and not need to crank much at all on the bolts
 
I tried to load it using a large wrench but it only went about 1/2 the distance needed.
I could see the tbar starting to bow under the load. I couldn't crank it any further.

I'll try again with my new socket + using my torque wrench for leverage.
I don't remember it being that tough to crank; Although it's been a couple of months.
These new keys do sit down a bit further then stock, which provides for extra lift.
 
Last edited:
After getting my socket, I loosened up a section of my exhaust that sits right above the torsion bar cross member.
I was able to lift it an inch or so out of the way, changing the angle of my torsion bar adjustment tool.

With my new socket, it didn't peak past 140-150 ftlbs and started unloading as it moved past center.
Good upper body workout, right?

I have the bolts roughly where they were when I removed them, which should give me about 4" of lift.
I marked each one and cranked them back equally. I can do the fine tuning later before I get my alignment.

Working on Sway bar now.
 
Progress update

- ABS sensors clipped into place, 2 clips at top and a wire tie 1/2 way to the caliper should work fine.
- Greased Idler & pitman again
- Greased inner and outer Tie-rods
- Installing front shocks

IMG_20140920_152118459_zpsobflboqi.jpg


Going to mount the old calipers + rotors so I can put my old wheels on it.
I need some weight on the arms to get the shocks mounted.

I also removed the rear shocks completely.
 
Last edited:
Old calipers [needed to be compressed], rotors mounted

IMG_20140920_170517134_HDR_zpsokrxz7bo.jpg


I might dremel / bend off the lower clip on the brake line. It just seems to be in the way and will bang around.
When the new calipers and rotors arrive, I'll disconnect the line, reroute it and bleed the brakes.
I should have ordered new brake lines [might do that tonight]. Shiny.
 
Last edited:
yeah brake line looks pretty tight in that pic. Let us know what brand of stainless ones you can find because I really should change mine too
 
It's only tight because I ran it around the front of the arm & spindle.
It would be better to run it from behind and around to the back of the caliper.

I just ordered this stainless kit [for the flex lines]. Pretty good price IMO.
Russell 695770 Street Legal Brake Hose 5 lines for 6" lift

Rough Country sells a set, and so do a few others like Fabtech.
These will do nicely though, Russell performance (Edelbrock)
 
Last edited:
Hahaha, I mounted the PYO's trying to get the suspension to compress a bit to mount the shocks.
I might back and loosen up the LCA, UCA and sway bar mounts to see if it drops a little.
That way I know it's riding on the torsion bar and not picking up a ton of resistance from the other mounts.

Dat huge fender well.
IMG_20140921_121658241_HDR_zpsgql6xs8s.jpg
 
:lol: Dat monster trok. Yeah definitely need to do that, UCA/LCAs are supposed to be torqued with the truck on the ground for that very reason. Getting so excited to see this thing!