Dakota's build thread

Well I think with the adjustability in them I can get a better angle and get rid of some of the bumpsteer..my tre angles are bad right now.

Ive seen plenty of nbs trucks lower than mine and the guys have little to no bumpsteer using djm arms. Theres a dude on instagram that's friends with peyton and samuel who has a rcsb 4wd who is 5/8 with the same front setup I have and he said he doesnt have any bumpsteer problems and he runs 11s lol
 
Dakota said:
Well I think with the adjustability in them I can get a better angle and get rid of some of the bumpsteer..my tre angles are bad right now.

Ive seen plenty of nbs trucks lower than mine and the guys have little to no bumpsteer using djm arms. Theres a dude on instagram that's friends with peyton and samuel who has a rcsb 4wd who is 5/8 with the same front setup I have and he said he doesnt have any bumpsteer problems and he runs 11s lol
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Ha well your 1/4 et is pretty irrelevant to bumpsteer issues.

I forgot what is your exact setup?

My truck is pretty damn good with little bumpsteer on the current setup, but of course I want it perfect. Supposedly Bell tech may release another updated NBS spindle with an even lower Tie rod mount (which mine is already lower than McG, but want it even lower!). I was looking into a custom drag link to help but have since abandoned that plan. Just gonna wait on BT and see if they release the spindle. Then I'll be having my UCA mounts raised 1.5" along with a raised coil over bucket (among some other minor mods for the coil over conversion and ditching t-bars...). I actually contacted MMW about doing some of the fab work for me but they are over a year and a half out on in house custom projects!!!! Dayum!!

But anyway I rarely believe many peoples words when they say they have no bumpsteer.
 
Ha yea I know.

3" djm lowers and djm uppers and 2" mcgaughys spindles. Would like to convert to coilovers aswell but if that happens its gonna be a very long time lol
 
I currently have DJM arms bagged and have a massive about of bumpsteer. I rode around at about a 5" drop up front. Exploring options right now to replace entire from setup.
 
Dakota said:
Ha yea I know.

3" djm lowers and djm uppers and 2" mcgaughys spindles. Would like to convert to coilovers aswell but if that happens its gonna be a very long time lol
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Yeah see perfect example here; I realize not all trucks are 100% identical from the factory, but on paper you have the same setup as Oleg (spanky/black04) who says his has no bumpsteer either. But do you believe that when you apparently seem dissatisfied with the combo? Probably not... and not my point at all here to discredit Oleg, he has no reason to mislead anyone and is a super straight forward guy, but just goes to show there is obviously variance in setups AND opinion on handling.

BTW, if there ever was one other truck I've seen on a forum that I'd love to see in person and get side by side with mine to compare notes and performance, it would probably be his too! Love it. I want his RCV axles sooooo bad that he got for a deal and a half and hasn't ever used!!! Lol, sorry to go so gar off topic here...



And as far as DJM LCA with stock spindle and uncranked keys... well I absolutely hated it. Love it way better with my BT spindles and DJM arms. But go ahead and see how your experience compares with my opinion!
 
Yea if it doesnt get any better after this, I may find some stock arms and go back to them. Mine got thrown away by mistake when my dad was cleaning up one day, since I did the work at his place
 
ShredSled said:
Yeah see perfect example here; I realize not all trucks are 100% identical from the factory, but on paper you have the same setup as Oleg (spanky/black04) who says his has no bumpsteer either. But do you believe that when you apparently seem dissatisfied with the combo? Probably not... and not my point at all here to discredit Oleg, he has no reason to mislead anyone and is a super straight forward guy, but just goes to show there is obviously variance in setups AND opinion on handling.

BTW, if there ever was one other truck I've seen on a forum that I'd love to see in person and get side by side with mine to compare notes and performance, it would probably be his too! Love it. I want his RCV axles sooooo bad that he got for a deal and a half and hasn't ever used!!! Lol, sorry to go so gar off topic here...



And as far as DJM LCA with stock spindle and uncranked keys... well I absolutely hated it. Love it way better with my BT spindles and DJM arms. But go ahead and see how your experience compares with my opinion!
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Yea I see what you are saying, we'll see once I get these parts replaced.

Do want rcv axles bad!

if I go back to stock spindles ill throw my 2500 keys back in and decrank them some. As easy as spindles are to swap ill probably just do my new bj's and heims and put it back together with the mcg spindles and see how it does..if its the same ill swap to stock spindles and sell the mcg and get some bell techs
 
J_Corr said:
I currently have DJM arms bagged and have a massive about of bumpsteer. I rode around at about a 5" drop up front. Exploring options right now to replace entire from setup.
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You would be better going back to stock arms and mcg 16" drop spindles.


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The biggest culprit of bumpsteet is the factory tierod end maxing out and pulling the wheel in. These hiems give much more movement to prevent this


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Im not sure to be honest but coilovers are a very distant purchase if I go that route..cant drop that kind of coin anytime soon
 
Tukn4s said:
You would be better going back to stock arms and mcg 16" drop spindles.


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No 16" spindles compatibility for 4wd as far as I know.


Gannon said:
What if you back to stock spindles with coilovers? Would that help with bumpsteer, along with a better overall ride?
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No coilovers wouldn't effect any of the steering geometry nor wheel travel path up and down.
If anyone ever says their bumpsteer was improved with new shocks or coils, or coilovers, it's simply because they increased the damping rate and therefore only slowed the suspensions movement over bumps resulting in less drastic/rapid toe changes. This can help minor, but really would just be a bandaid fix for a bigger issue.
 
ShredSled said:
No 16" spindles compatibility for 4wd as far as I know.





No coilovers wouldn't effect any of the steering geometry nor wheel travel path up and down.
If anyone ever says their bumpsteer was improved with new shocks or coils, or coilovers, it's simply because they increased the damping rate and therefore only slowed the suspensions movement over bumps resulting in less drastic/rapid toe changes. This can help minor, but really would just be a bandaid fix for a bigger issue.
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But wouldn't putting your stock spindles back on put your angles at better spot? Then just setting the coilovers at 2"s.


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^ oh my mistake


Gannon said:
But wouldn't putting your stock spindles back on put your angles at better spot? Then just setting the coilovers at 2"s.


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Oh I see what you're getting at.
But honestly no it wouldn't help. Lowering coilover preload is in effect the same result as us torsion bar guys uncranking and/or going to lowering keys.
We gotta face it, our susp. geometry is just kinda whack when we go to these lower ride heights. Gotta start playing with pivot placement for best results in wheel travel path.

And even with stock spindle and DJM LCA and uncranked, tie rod end height is way up there. One of the reasons I was looking into some sort of custom drag link for our steering with a different offset/height to better match our higher location on spindle... but it was fairly pricey for what I wanted one-off, and not to mention completely trial and error since it alsomesses with Ackerman and can cause more tire scrub, etc.
 
Ahh, gotcha. So what would be the best formula for the least amount of bumpstop?

Sorry for clouding up your build bread Dakota, last question.


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Gannon said:
Ahh, gotcha. So what would be the best formula for the least amount of bumpstop?

Sorry for clouding up your build bread Dakota, last question.


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Keep the tierods parallel with the lower arm and make sure they do not max out easily.


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Gannon said:
Ahh, gotcha. So what would be the best formula for the least amount of bumpstop?

Sorry for clouding up your build bread Dakota, last question.


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Get it setup to where there is super minimal camber gain/loss through travel (hitting bumps) and then from there it is essential for the tie rod angle to match that of the LCA through its' travel, that way as you hit a bump your wheel isn't getting pulled in and out (toe change), which is basically the definition of bumpsteer...
Right now with it lowered so much, the UCA is at such an extreme angle at ride height that as you hit a bump it pulls in the top of your tire wanting to move around the pivot as a full circle, not just up and down, which is also a different problem, but adds to and compounds the bumpsteer...
Basically all i have the budget amd knowledge to do is raise the UCA mounts (inner pivot) to match the increased height of spindle, that way the control arm movements would at least be as close to stock as I can reasonably get them.
Tie rod thing is a crap shoot. Not much I can do on my own, that's why I was stoked to hear that Bell tech had what was possibly an updated spindle for NBS at Sema, hopefully with a much lower tie rod mount...
 
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