Bagged NBS Thread (99-07c) Pics & Discussion

I run dominator bags. Love the ride, little stiffer and give more stroke. 8" of lift is plenty for anyone in the rear, that isn't bodied. Best setup for ride quality with towing option is parallel 4 link with panhard and bag behind axle set up. Then using sleeve bags. Make the panhard bar as long as possible to minimize lateral axle movement. Keep in mind the most you think you would ever tow when choosing bag size. Ridetech's airbar setup is awesome for just this. It is easily modified if you want to lay out. I followed a buddy pulling 8,000 lb uhaul with that very setup down the interstate at 70 with no floating or swaying.
 
I really doubt I will ever pull anything big, a small ski boat under 20' at most if I ever decide to finally buy one. A vehicle every now and then if needed, but to be honest, I have never actually towed anything with any of my trucks other than a small enclosed uhual trailer. I'd just like to keep it open, but if it becomes too expensive, or too much of a hassle I will forget about it. I have a cousin a mile from me, and my father own's 3 trucks, 2 of which will never be sold (2500 Cummins and 3500 Chevy flatbed).

I don't have the fab skills do do most of this shit, so I would have to find someone, or pay out the ass at a shop like nfamus.
 
KP in the rear is a super easy do it yourself kit.
If you don't like camber, you have a few options depending on rims sized your like to run.
I love my ekmw front kit because of the small amount of camber, but you do have to run 24's or bigger with it. It was time consuming and really strait forward. If you have a friend with a welder and a torch/plasma it's not a big process, but it is spendy. Then air management is all personal preference.
 
Anyone see anything wrong with mounting my air tank where the stock gas tank is? Then any problems with running a fuel cell at the very rear?
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welsh907 said:
KP in the rear is a super easy do it yourself kit.
If you don't like camber, you have a few options depending on rims sized your like to run.
I love my ekmw front kit because of the small amount of camber, but you do have to run 24's or bigger with it. It was time consuming and really strait forward. If you have a friend with a welder and a torch/plasma it's not a big process, but it is spendy. Then air management is all personal preference.
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I really have no plans on running 24's right now, 22's at most for a while if I do this. Realistically I would be on the vho's for a while until I could afford something else. It would be a slow process. I am ultra picky on wheels, and it would most likely be billets for 24's and that is just a cost I don't want right now, nor can I justify. I'd be happy with a set if reps in 22", maybe TBSS.
 
Jared, just start buying shit already. We all know you're gonna end up bagging it, so might as well start collecting parts.
 
CUB said:
That's the shitty part. Gotta have 24's to run the Ekstensiv kit with no camber.
Us on 20's gotta use cups and have camber.
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I think the cleanest set up I've seen with cups is davaflav. Pretty sure his was cups on stock arms with flipped uppers and moved the uppers up like 2" and he had like 4* of camber iirc. Better than the 7 or 8* he had before.
 
Khaos, it is real possible I may be doing it, but I don't want to rush it. I can't afford it right now, maybe in about a year, maybe less. I want to first get my spindles and go 4/6-8 depending and save up money, I have to have the spindles from what I can tell, and that's only a $300 cost at most. I have everything else to go lower in the rear. I may have found a different set of 20's with smaller tires to roll around on for now.
 
Jared said:
Khaos, it is real possible I may be doing it, but I don't want to rush it. I can't afford it right now, maybe in about a year, maybe less. I want to first get my spindles and go 4/6-8 depending and save up money, I have to have the spindles from what I can tell, and that's only a $300 cost at most. I have everything else to go lower in the rear. I may have found a different set of 20's with smaller tires to roll around on for now.
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Just busting your balls dude. I like static crews too, so either way it'll look good
 
welsh907 said:
Going to get hydro boost today. Is there anything I need to do to it before installing it? Or just install and bleed breaks?
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just replace the booster. leave all the lines hooked up and you don't have the mess from brake fluid mess. unless you're bleeding the brakes anyway.
 
welsh907 said:
So all I should be snagging from the yard is the master, booster and pedal correct?
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the master cylinder is same as what you have now. i left mine with all the lines connected and just swapped out the booster. that way i never had to break the brake lines loose and bleed the truck. I also modified my stock pedal. I bought my booster brand new. if you go this route, there is a spring between the master cylinder and booster that is needed. so make sure dont lose that. It was much easier to swap boosters than swap and bleed everything.

i also swapped the power steering pump. a lot of people dont do it because "you can do it with the factory pump". i have the entire system from a 2500hd truck and haven't had a single issue with mine.
 
welsh907 said:
I think the cleanest set up I've seen with cups is davaflav. Pretty sure his was cups on stock arms with flipped uppers and moved the uppers up like 2" and he had like 4* of camber iirc. Better than the 7 or 8* he had before.
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thing is dave had a nbs. cups on a nnbs look like you gots broken balljoints.
 
Got the air tank all mounted in this afternoon. Was kind of concerned, when the trucks laid out, I have about the height of my foot between the tank and the ground. Is that alright or should I cut it out and mount it higher?
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Nvm found out the hard way.
 
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welsh907 said:
Got the air tank all mounted in this afternoon. Was kind of concerned, when the trucks laid out, I have about the height of my foot between the tank and the ground. Is that alright or should I cut it out and mount it higher?
3amahy4u.jpg
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thats fine. thats how mine is
 
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