Thanks. I get off early tomorrow so I'll be able to work on it a lot tomorrow
Bagged NBS Thread (99-07c) Pics & Discussion 123123
- Thread starter Zach.
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Thanks. I get off early tomorrow so I'll be able to work on it a lot tomorrow
Yea I would def be interested. I thought about flipped uppers with uniball's. I saw a guys ball joints strait up snap and his wheels/brake/rotor flew off the truck. So it worries me
I'll get them tomorrow and press the old ball joint out and do some measuring to see how much work it will take to get it done. I'm not going to weld to the upper arm because it isn't steel. I just don't want to go through a ton of work if it isn't going to cost effective for you.
because of the lack of room to use a 1" uniball, I have to use 3/4" uniballs and the price is a little higher because not that many people sell them. 1" uniballs are by far the most common uniballs used and can be purchased cheaper. MMW uses them for the jeebus joints and a lot of offroad shops use them. the 3/4" is not near as common but provides the same strength and can be used in areas with over 1" less clearance. for instance my bolt in uniballs. the body of the ball joints the ekstensive, kp, and art uses in there arms is 1.9" the uniball cup for the 3/4" uniball is 1.75" so it perfect for this application. the OD on the 1" uniball cup is 2.625". it makes it extremely hard to fit it in the area without more cutting and grinding on the arms to be done and the bolt pattern for the ball joints on these arms doesnt allow for that to work anyway.
I'm looking at $250 shipped range. thats about $150 less than I got quoted for some jeebus joint upper arms 2 years ago. If you're still interested, I'll get to work measuring everything
aftermarket uppers with ball joints compared to some uniballs fitted to the flipped stocks, not when you're talking about geometry. without moving the upper arm mounts and using ball joints, you will either bind when lifting and not lowered or bind lowered and not lifted.
you can have a pretty good setup on 275/30r24 without reconstructing your front suspension buy just shortening the lowers 1/2", running McG 16" spindles, and flipped stock uppers.
adding uniballs into that equation will make it even better.
a set of aftermarket uppers with uniballs would be better because you could use 1" uniballs. however unless you have a shop local you trust. MMW is about the only people who deal with over internet sales and use uniballs regularly. it's all about a cost and turn around time thing for you.
I understand that, but the amount you have now is way in excess. I had -5* and cleared everything. anymore than that and you're putting extra unwanted stress on the ball joints.
you also need camber, so that you have a good suspension geometry. excessive camber is what kills ball joints. a proper suspension geometry will get the lower and upper ball joints working together to camber the wheel. the NBS suspension is pretty damn good stock but when it starts to get really stroked, it gets out of correlation a little. thats where sectioning each stock lower 1/2" comes into play. that way everything works and put as little stress on the ball joints as possible.
Have Brett make u uppers and lowers
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it would be pretty good setup without having to drop a ton of coin. what spindle do you have?
I wish I could start that. but there's a little too much on my plate to do that right now.
Maybe a dumb question but when you say not to shorten the lowers no more than 1/2". Does that just pertain to his truck cause when you shorten the track width aren't you narrowing both upper and lower control arms?
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if you shorten the lower more than 1/2", the uppers need to be done as well. shortening the lowers 1/2" like I'm talking about, it's not to narrow the track width, because the upper part of the wheel will not be moved in at all. it's to lessen the camber he has at lower ride heights.
Stock spindles too. The entire front suspension is stock. Bags on cups. Just move down here and with your knowledge and my fancy skills we could open a shop and get rich
well here's the thing, when trying to create the best suspension WITHOUT completely reconstrucing the geometry. the best thing you can possibly have is the mcg 16" drop spindle. regardless of the arms you buy or make, that spindle is by far the best money you can spend. after that, its just sectioning the lower arm and flipping the upper.
simply sectioning 1/2" out of the lower arms will cut down your camber 2.*. if you add the 16"+ drop spindle, that will get really close -5* depending on the height you get aligned at.
by the way, whenever you're ready, I'm ready to make some uniball upper arms
