00silvy's official 2000 Silverado Build thread
- Thread starter 00silvyON
- Start date
Took some pics beside the giant Furd. It has 8" RC on 38's. It's 6' to the bottom of the door tear drop lol. 
Well today & tomorrow are dedicated to doing the lift. I got a jack that lifts 3', and blocked truck up nice and high.
So far, I've removed the keys & torsion bars, LCA's, knuckles, all skid plates, CV's, etc...
All thats left for dis-assembly is to remove the front diff, then its all back "up-hill".
I am replacing the lower ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm & bracket before diff goes back in, hopefully I can get that done tonight.
Here's some pics thus far, I am heading back out to the garage to keep wrenching!
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Well got the diff out. I don't have a sawzall (reciprocating saw), and a grinder wouldn't fit in there to cut the upper mount off to drop the diff down past the center-link, so I took the idler arm off, and removed the passenger side tie-rod assembly. Then turned the center link counter-clockwise through the frame opening (close to the bumper valence) Then diff could just drop right down.
I replaced my lower ball joints (Moogs), sway bar bushings & clamps (Moogs) and idler arm & bracket/pivot assembly (also Moog). Came with a nifty hose, that attaches to sway bar busing clamp bolt, for ease of greasing.
I got the passenger side diff drop bracket installed & torqued down, and diff is on shop floor, in the morning I shall cut & trim my front diff after I clean it up, install the brackets, then diff is going in, and then I am on the home stretch (front lift wise).
Oh, and I got the lower mounts from Richard (Atomic) mounted on the LCA's. They fit well, and and snug on the control arm, will be as strong as original.
So far, I've removed the keys & torsion bars, LCA's, knuckles, all skid plates, CV's, etc...
All thats left for dis-assembly is to remove the front diff, then its all back "up-hill".
I am replacing the lower ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm & bracket before diff goes back in, hopefully I can get that done tonight.
Here's some pics thus far, I am heading back out to the garage to keep wrenching!
- - - - - - - - - -badass'ted double post- - - - - - - - - -
Well got the diff out. I don't have a sawzall (reciprocating saw), and a grinder wouldn't fit in there to cut the upper mount off to drop the diff down past the center-link, so I took the idler arm off, and removed the passenger side tie-rod assembly. Then turned the center link counter-clockwise through the frame opening (close to the bumper valence) Then diff could just drop right down.
I replaced my lower ball joints (Moogs), sway bar bushings & clamps (Moogs) and idler arm & bracket/pivot assembly (also Moog). Came with a nifty hose, that attaches to sway bar busing clamp bolt, for ease of greasing.
I got the passenger side diff drop bracket installed & torqued down, and diff is on shop floor, in the morning I shall cut & trim my front diff after I clean it up, install the brackets, then diff is going in, and then I am on the home stretch (front lift wise).
Oh, and I got the lower mounts from Richard (Atomic) mounted on the LCA's. They fit well, and and snug on the control arm, will be as strong as original.
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you need to rotate the blocks you have the jack stands on the block the weakest way. if you have to hammer something that block is gonna get a vibration and cumble
atleast make it so that the openings are top and bottom and put a peice of wood on to then the stand.
why people think cinderblocks are tough is beyond me
dont die :dnw:
atleast make it so that the openings are top and bottom and put a peice of wood on to then the stand.
why people think cinderblocks are tough is beyond me
dont die :dnw:
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Can add easily to any fitting that isnt a rotating assembly. Do it on combines all the time because dnw to get all greasy before getting in clean cab
Blocks aren't wide enough to put jack on top the other way, I tried that first, and I am out of blocks of wood. I used everything I found lol. And they are solid, truck doesn't budge, and the blocks and holding true. I'm not worried.
If I had more good, solid blocks of wood, I would have rathered them, but I made due
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I will be!
:imo:
Ain't done yet. Doing a lift by yourself, without some of the needed tools, makes certain parts a PITA.
People who improvise.
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Well I got the frame cut, to let the diff be dropped (only had a grinder, so it took me like 45 mins to get it off.
I trimmed the frame for the coil overs (also with grinder, PITA) painted some bare steel, and got the rear crossmember and diff mounted up.
Right now I am fighting the front D-shaft to get it to move forward enough to bolt into the front diff yoke. I cant get the driveshaft to budge from the transfer case. So I am gunna start hitting and prying a little on it after my dinner break.
I also got the hubs together (Timken bearings & painted the dust shields. never-seized everything any bolted together)
One winter (which is about to hit) and it'll look like that again. I promise.
If you saw the frame on my truck, with less than 60,000 miles on it, you'd cry. I do every time I'm under there.
Sent from my igloo using my SGS4 eh.
If you saw the frame on my truck, with less than 60,000 miles on it, you'd cry. I do every time I'm under there.
Sent from my igloo using my SGS4 eh.
Its coming, hold your horses :slorg:
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Yea I know
I will just keep up with it all winter & spring. Not much I can do with it- - - - - - - - - -auto merged double post- - - - - - - - - -
Well I still can't get the front drive shaft to come ahead the 3/4" I need it to, so I let it soak in penetrating oil, and will work on that eventually tomorrow.
I got the Diff in place, both cross member on and torqued down, the skid plate bolted and torqued down, front diff vent tube & plug connected, and all steering put back together.
I also got the lower control arms bolted in, and my kicker brace brackets bolted up.
I did a quick test fit of the coil overs with the control arm now mounted to the drop brackets. AND....... they clear everything! it is tight, like 1/2" or so between spring and UCA & frame behind it, but it clears, within all parts of travel. so CONFIRMED!!
Tomorrow I will finish everything up, and get rear block on, and it will be DONE!
and on a side note, I measured how much the " 6 Inch Rough Country NTD" lift kit, actually drops everthing. Came in @ 4.5" drop for the differential, and 5" for the LCA's
The jacks are sitting on the vertical pillars of the cinder blocks, and they are 1.25" thick. I am not worried about those