00silvy's official 2000 Silverado Build thread
- Thread starter 00silvyON
- Start date
Moving on past the blocks. :facepalm:
Got the drivers side all completed.
BUT passenger side, the coil over doesnt clear. So tomorrow morning I will be buying a 5/8" drill bit (size of upper mount stud) and drilling it in the shock tower back and right (towards front of truck) so it will clear. I will get some big washer for now, but in the mean time I am going to make some big steel plate washers for top, and weld in plate to support shock tower.
Rough Country steering stabilizer
no spacer needed with NNBS CV axles
All thats left to do is paint frame and install kicker braces after getting the coil over in place. STILL have to get my front driveshaft to come forward 3/4", and add my 3" block.
Hopefully I can get it done tomorrow, and get it aligned friday.
Got the drivers side all completed.
BUT passenger side, the coil over doesnt clear. So tomorrow morning I will be buying a 5/8" drill bit (size of upper mount stud) and drilling it in the shock tower back and right (towards front of truck) so it will clear. I will get some big washer for now, but in the mean time I am going to make some big steel plate washers for top, and weld in plate to support shock tower.
Rough Country steering stabilizer
no spacer needed with NNBS CV axles
All thats left to do is paint frame and install kicker braces after getting the coil over in place. STILL have to get my front driveshaft to come forward 3/4", and add my 3" block.
Hopefully I can get it done tomorrow, and get it aligned friday.
That looks awesome, can't wait to see it done and hear how the coilovers ride
Sent from Tapatwat
Sent from Tapatwat
Fuckin thing wont budge from the slip yoke in the Tcase. I soaked where it meets the seal in WD 40, and I pryed up and down on the yoke, and pounded it foraward with a big hammer, wont budge. I am gunna try prying backwards a bit, maybe to break it loose, and keep pounding on it forwards. I am going to complete the front first, and get tires on, then I can take cement blocks out before I go crazy hammering
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Hopefully today! I should be able to get to work on it around 330
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WELL.
drilled a new hole in the passenger side shock tower, and added two 1/8" thick, 3" washers on top. very solid, but still going to add a upper brace in the near future.
Passenger side now has more clearance to the UCA, due to the new hole. I set the spring pre-load at 1/2" up from "snug" on the adjusters. Still have tons of adjustment up, more than suspension will allow, two times over.
I got the front end together, and front wheels torqued down. ALL that's left now is to get the front driveshaft to come forward 3/4". and it wont budge thus far. fack. Truck needs an alignment BAD, which I will get done tomorrow. has a little bit of tire sticking past fender, "stance" if you will.
All in all, lift was a success, went together nicely. I did this by myself, on jack stands.
Word to the wise to anyone going to do a lift similar to what I did. HAVE A SAWZALL (reciprocating saw) will make it SO much easier compared to a grinder.
Well, truck is done..... pretty much. Everything is cleaned up, tightening up, greased, double checked, etc....
spent 3 hours cleaning & painting frame (4 cans of paint) and its drying in the garage overnight.(done after photos taken, before someone says something :security
inflated tires @ 38 psi all 4 corners, topped off all fluids, gave it a quick vacuum, and really its ready to roll.
ONLY problem is, I can't get my god damn front driveshaft to come ahead that 3/4"... I beat the living piss out of it, with a big ass hammer, pryed on it with a 3 foot pry bar, and every bit of strength I could muster from everywhich angle, didn't even budge.... I could go for a test drive if this would cooperate. FML.
I still have to install the new RCX rear shocks, and 3" block (I have a 1.5" AAL already). But I am done working on this thing for a few days, I am fine driving it around with like 2-2.5" of lean for a few days.
Angles: (I COULD lower the front suspension, a tiny bit, but it sits fine as is, and I'm sure it will settle a tad bit).
Kicker Braces:
Front crossmember:
And finally the front fender height once I finally dropped it onto the cement floor:
spent 3 hours cleaning & painting frame (4 cans of paint) and its drying in the garage overnight.(done after photos taken, before someone says something :security
inflated tires @ 38 psi all 4 corners, topped off all fluids, gave it a quick vacuum, and really its ready to roll.
ONLY problem is, I can't get my god damn front driveshaft to come ahead that 3/4"... I beat the living piss out of it, with a big ass hammer, pryed on it with a 3 foot pry bar, and every bit of strength I could muster from everywhich angle, didn't even budge.... I could go for a test drive if this would cooperate. FML.
I still have to install the new RCX rear shocks, and 3" block (I have a 1.5" AAL already). But I am done working on this thing for a few days, I am fine driving it around with like 2-2.5" of lean for a few days.
Angles: (I COULD lower the front suspension, a tiny bit, but it sits fine as is, and I'm sure it will settle a tad bit).
Kicker Braces:
Front crossmember:
And finally the front fender height once I finally dropped it onto the cement floor:
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:wtf:
the coil spring holds the truck up.
the kicker braces are for any jolt that you may put on the front cross member aka hitting a curb or something, it keeps it from folding back
I've hard you don't need them if you keep the torsion bars. Just wondering. :whoapanda:
Oh ok :shake:
The kicker braces are always optional but like ginger said, adds support to the cross member so it doesn't fold under. I run them and still have torsion bars
Thanks man, I am hopeing so!
Kicker braces arent needed, but were $100, and all some rigidity. worth it IMO. and look kewl lol
Hopefully I will find out today!
Dont honestly NEED them, just a good idea
Thanks James!