Static NBS Thread 99-07c

Will do. Not sure but maybe with multiple people wanting one done, maybe they will make some sort of cheaper price but idk.
 
Half a turn actually netted a little bit moar for me
Cut djm coils that settled at 2.5 cut half turn about 4 months later put them on and now im 5 3/4
 
well went to trade for stock gmc20s today on 275 40. dude drove hour and half, got there and they was fucked. had scratched down into the metal. then was mad when i said i wasnt trading him lol. austin said he thought it was a set that was local for 250 bucks.
 
Question for you guys that have experience with McG spindles. I'm torn between the 16" spindles or the 17" spindles. What it comes down to for me is budget. With the 16" spindles I can use the wheels I have now and not have to spend more money on finding 17s or larger, for the cost of losing turning radius vs spending money on 17s or larger.

I was wondering if there is any truth in that the 16" spindles are harder to install than the 17"? If so, what causes the issues? And I believe there was a thread on gmfs about modifying the 16" spindles to regain some turning radius?

Just looking for pros and cons of each and what you guys would recommend to do on a college student budget.
 
Khaos said:
Question for you guys that have experience with McG spindles. I'm torn between the 16" spindles or the 17" spindles. What it comes down to for me is budget. With the 16" spindles I can use the wheels I have now and not have to spend more money on finding 17s or larger, for the cost of losing turning radius vs spending money on 17s or larger.

I was wondering if there is any truth in that the 16" spindles are harder to install than the 17"? If so, what causes the issues? And I believe there was a thread on gmfs about modifying the 16" spindles to regain some turning radius?

Just looking for pros and cons of each and what you guys would recommend to do on a college student budget.
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with 16" and 17" your gonna lose turning radius. with 16" you have to drile the rivets out of the control arm so you can move the balljoint on top of the control arm. thats the problem with the 16" spindles. its a pain in the ass to drille out those rivets. supposedly it willl provide the least of bump steer in all spindles cause it is closest to factory specs. with a 17" you just remove your spindle and put the new one in.
 
The only thing about my 17+ mcgaughys spindles, I had to do a shit ton of grinding on the lower ball joint bolt to clear my factory 17s. Other than that they were really easy and self explanatory.

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i believe any 17" spindle you have do to alot of grinding. i wanna say new spindles use a regular nut and not a taller castle nut. if you grind down to the castle, the stud will still be to long. grind down to a regular nut and itll be right.
 
I ground mine down flush with the nut on both side and it works, its really close though, you couldn't slide a business card between there

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So the biggest pain is drilling the rivets the flip the bj to the top of the arm? If that's really the only difference then I would rather save my money on new wheels for now and deal with drilling them.
 
It may be a pain but if your gaining most of turning radius back and everything is close to factory specs then I would rather go that route if you dont want to buy new wheels right now.
 
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