Le slicksierra build thread

These guys :fp: so update on my truck. Got my brake lines in but now I have a evap code. My rear calipers seized up so now I'm doing all new brakes on all 4 corners. Got slotted rotors for the place gwilks recommended and some Tahoe ppv pads and reman calipers and fresh dot4 fluid. Should stop decent didn't wanna mess with trying to go bigger just wanted to be done with fucking with the brakes at this point it's been over a month since I blew the lines

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Evap code could be the canister at the back of the tank.
Yeah I'm gonna crawl under there and check it out when I'm replacing everything else I do have a vacuum line that is not unusually long lol probably coming from the evap canister. Probably got pulled out while I was running the rear line

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pretty good deals.

i wonder if the pads dust a lot.

Went with parts store pads so not sure. But I thought this was all behind me and it was for 250 miles, I had great pedal feel and then I went to bleed the brakes and striped a bleeder on the rear. So after a new caliper and bleeding then brakes again my pedal is garbage. So garbage that when the truck is on and running I can push it nearly to the floor. When the truck is off, the pedal gets extremely firm after 1 or 2 pumps. The only parts that are not new in the brake system are the, master cylinder, booster, abs module and the lines running to the calipers. My dad seems to think its a bad master cylinder but I've had no way to test this. Any ideas?


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I would check your booster first, they can do funky things when they go bad ,like making the pedal super stiff, making it like semi truck strong brakes or having no power assist and allowing to go to the floor. It's not bad to change out either.
 
I would check your booster first, they can do funky things when they go bad ,like making the pedal super stiff, making it like semi truck strong brakes or having no power assist and allowing to go to the floor. It's not bad to change out either.
Thanks fuso taking to to a local guy with a tech2 to have the abs bled and if that doesn't solve the issue than I'll look into the booster and master cylinder

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i would guess booster. if the master was bad, you wouldnt get pedal when the truck is off

Booster has good vacuum though and a good seal. I let the truck run for awhile then pulled the vacuum hose off the booster and it was like pulling an air hose off a compressor, all the air came rushing out. Also the pedal dosent sink to the floor on its own like if the booster had a leak. From what I've gathered the seals on the piston can be compromised and allow fluid to travel past the piston instead of compressing it down the lines. Giving the pedal a soft feel but also showing no signs of external leakage. Ordered the master today, for 60 bucks can't go wrong.


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im just saying, if you sit there with the truck running, and you get a good hard pedal, then the master is fine. once you have the motor running and its pulling vacuum on the booster is when its fucking up.

That's what I'm saying dude I don't have a good pedal with the truck running. Only with the truck off do I have a good pedal. Sitting there with the truck running I can push it nearly to the floor. It won't sink if I hold it in a certain position but it takes little to no effort to fully depress it. Now with the truck off, 3 pumps and the pedal is rock hard and I can't move it


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which means your fucking master is fine, like i have said fucking twice now.

if the issue is when the truck is running, it has to do with the booster, because the booster doesnt do shit when the truck is off. the master doesnt know if the truck is running or not, only the booster does.