Huck's 2006 Sierra Crew

and we told you if you just swap to stock wheels and some light a/t's and leave everything the same you will get optimum MPG of you setup.

no need to ditch the bl or any of the other stuff. in reality, if you make the truck lighter aka ditch the tool box, any extra shit in the cab it would help.
 
I wouldn't completely change the setup on my truck to pick up an estimated 20-30% gain in mpg. Lets say you get 30%, that's no where near enough savings to justify my time to change suspension etc
 
Yes GPS confirmed. I'll be sure to document my mileage change and savings when I'm done. Plus will have fun with baby tires and 4.10s. :aintmad:

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I think the other point is that although you may see mileage gains, I would be willing to bet that it only translates into 1 tank of gas each month, which is only ~$40 a month.

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I think the other point is that although you may see mileage gains, I would be willing to bet that it only translates into 1 tank of gas each month, which is only ~$40 a month.

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This, for $40 drop phone data, get rid of large cable/dish package, change driving habits and you will save over 100 and still have truck the way you want unless deep down you actually want to lower the truck and are just trying to justify it
 
I feel like this should be a topic on mythbusters, but they did do the tailgate vs no tailgate and that turned out to be a bust...
 
Weight is such a big deal in mileage and feel. My truck felt so much nicer and cruised better more power etc after I took off the spare, hitch, toolbox and plow frame. I didn't compare mileage gains bcuz truck life. Still saying stock height and stockish rolling stock and you should be pimpin


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Huck I think you need this

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Negative ghostrider. Literally cannot function on 2 wheels. I've laid down every dirtbike I've ever tried to ride lol

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Weight is such a big deal in mileage and feel. My truck felt so much nicer and cruised better more power etc after I took off the spare, hitch, toolbox and plow frame.


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I have very seriously thought about stepping down to 20" reps on my truck just because of the weight.

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Just read the last 3 pages, let me weigh in.

Basically I have done a lift, wheels, tires, cam and now gears to my truck. I religiously check my mpg every tank and average 12.5 with 50/50 fwy/city driving, through all of this, when it was stock on 265s, lifted on 285s and now on 20x12s and 33x12.50s, still the same mpg. Only thing that actually increased my mileage was going to 4.56 gears with these heavy 20x12s gained a little on the fwy, but lost a little in town.

That being said, I would start by getting some stock 17s or 18s because even oem 20s are way heavier, and buy a mild a/t tire setup around 32" tall and 265/285 width, that will be your least rolling resistance, best chance for an mpg improvement. Lowering the truck will have very little to do on mpg, because well it's a 5500lb truck and it takes fuel to move regardless of how high it is. If you're really worried about it get a hard tonneu cover as well, Tony has one and they make a big difference on mpg.

What Sam and Bryan are telling you is not wrong. I realize you have seen the higher mpg before, but don't expect it to do any better than 18 really, it still weighs 5500-6000 lbs.
Also I have done the math before on buying a commuter, and you can buy a hell of a lot of gas for 3-4k, and even then doesn't factor in maintenance or anything. I WOULD NOT remove your cv shafts because then what was the point of looking for any buying a 4wd truck if you can't use it when you need it?
I feel what is really killing you here is having a truck payment on it, and I would focus on paying the truck off as soon as possible.
 
If you still have stock wheels put those on with 265 ST Maxxs or Duratracs, of money has become that much of an issue Id just rock it stock with keys and dead level