Update...things are coming together slowly. I swear I keep hitting small "bumps in the road" and am tired of making trips to town after parts, bolts, and shit. I'm ready for this red-headed bastard to be done. Anyways, the tranny is in and about done. Found out the torque convertor bolts are for the stock flexplate, so I'll need to buy some longer bolts the next time I am in town. Sunday I got all of my cluster, switches, panels all back in after the LED swap. Everything looks good, except I only had one battery hooked up and my drivers side window wouldn't roll up and the switches on the left side of the dash were dim. The kid told me I need to have my second battery hooked up. So we will see once that battery is relocated and hooked up soon. In which, I got some 2/0 cable and ends to relocate the battery to the bed as opposed to mounting in down on the passenger side frame rail.
Last night, I got the aftermarket tranny cooler mounted, transmission lines routed, got the back half of the new 5in. exhaust route and mounted loosely. I'll need to take a small section about 10 inches long, expanded on either end to hook up to the downpipe. I won't be able to get my pickup into the shop the Monday after Christmas...the 29th. Since the one guy will be gone this coming week. FML...I was hoping to have it in the end of this week. Oh well.
Ran into some issues with the trans cooler fittings that go into the radiator. They have this large retaining ring that holds either a tank or something that is inside the radiator itself. So those will need to stay. Now the cooler lines, I pulled and had 1/2in. hydraulic hoses made up with JIC fittings on all the ends. They don't make a fitting (that I know of) that mimics the factory push-lock style ends. So tonight, me and a friend brazed some fittings up that will work.
Pictures do all the explaining...
Within the next few days, I'll get some convertor bolts and get those in and torqued down, relocate the battery to the front bed corner, I need to make a bracket to relocate the factory fuel filter head and run some new fuel lines to connect it again, finish the transmission cooler lines, get the turbo down pipe on and routed and hooked up to the new exhaust. Then there will be some small things to button up as well and the shop will fab up a new hot pipe piece coming out of the turbo, and will have them install the Y bridge and hook up one intercooler tube, and I may have them drill and tap a hole for the turbo drain line.
More pictures...
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Guy on DuramaxDiesels.com forum informed me that Alligator Performance has threaded fittings to replace the push to lock fittings that go into the radiator. Calling them first thing in the morning to see if thats true and if I can get some! I know the brazed fittings look a bit shady.....
