your truck will still start moving at lower RPM the stall is just the point when it the torque convertor locks. IIRC its around 1800-2000 on a stock truck.
00silvy's official 2000 Silverado Build thread
- Thread starter 00silvyON
- Start date
Don't bother with aftermarket oil pump. Get a teflon coated OEM unit from SDPC.
Although you're aren't really going for a max effort build, I'd still replace rod bolts with katechs while you have the pan off because this cannot be done easily with a 4wd if engine is in the truck. ARP's require a machine shop, katechs (while more expensive) do not.
There are better cams than that out there, with better lobe profiles that will be nicer on some beehives.
Regular 8.1 non-marine injectors wouldn't be a bad idea, but some can get frustrated with the large variety of o-rings, connectors, and usually top-hat spacers and custom fuel rail brackets needed. Up to you though.
I have an autometer trans-temp on my steering column in my Sierra, just tapped into a Hughes cast trans pan. I just use a aeroforce in my Silvy.
Hey, there are some old pics of one of my sixpoyntows in that link! That one is still running strong in the DD.
Similar situation to yours 00SilvyON, but I lost that 5.3 to a shitty Comp 918 spring that broke, then had the LQ9 pre-built on a stand waiting to go in.
Well, got a late start on the day, working on the truck wise.
Got the LQ4 on the engine stand, and cleaned it up. Installed the new water pump, new pulleys, painted some stuff, remove the intake manifold, and checked motor over. The LQ4 was super clean, almost no dirt (under intake mani) and knock sensors look perfect. I am going to lay down a bead of gasket maker for a dam when re-installing happens.
Started tearing into the truck. Got the fan shrouds and rad off, fan off, intake manifold off, hoses disconnected, battery disconnected, throttle body off, etc....
The underside of the Intake manifold on my 5.3L was DISGUSTING. a dead mouse, loads of oily dirt and crud. Just pure disgusting crap. Intake gaskets were leaking also.
Tomorrow I gotta go buy 12 new exhaust manifold bolts, new gaskets, and some other misc. items.
Then it will be pull motor out completely, then clean all the frame and everything up nice, spray down some frame paint, install stall converter, then all goes back together.
I Hope my BBP tune can get here in time, I left them 3 emails since friday, and 1 PM. I hope they can overnight a PCM to me. I wish Tunes vould be done through computer. Would make life so much easier. (without a AutoCal wise).
Problems so far:
-Oil dipstick doesn't want to come out of the engine block (bathed it in penetrating oil, and cut some off, clamped vise grips on it, and hit vise grips with a hammer, still didnt come out)
-fuel system seems a little different (outline below)
-no EGR on 6L motor/intake mani. (I will be deleting the whole EGR setup)
I do have one question about my fuel system, that I dont know the difference between 5.3 & 6.0.
The fuel lines coming from the truck, going to the stock fuel system on the 5.3L has two lines going to it, and the 6L only appears to have one. What do I do? As I'd really like to keep the 6L fuel rails. I'm pretty sure the 5.3L had a bummed fuel injector or two.
5.3L setup (in truck)
6L setup:
Got the LQ4 on the engine stand, and cleaned it up. Installed the new water pump, new pulleys, painted some stuff, remove the intake manifold, and checked motor over. The LQ4 was super clean, almost no dirt (under intake mani) and knock sensors look perfect. I am going to lay down a bead of gasket maker for a dam when re-installing happens.
Started tearing into the truck. Got the fan shrouds and rad off, fan off, intake manifold off, hoses disconnected, battery disconnected, throttle body off, etc....
The underside of the Intake manifold on my 5.3L was DISGUSTING. a dead mouse, loads of oily dirt and crud. Just pure disgusting crap. Intake gaskets were leaking also.
Tomorrow I gotta go buy 12 new exhaust manifold bolts, new gaskets, and some other misc. items.
Then it will be pull motor out completely, then clean all the frame and everything up nice, spray down some frame paint, install stall converter, then all goes back together.
I Hope my BBP tune can get here in time, I left them 3 emails since friday, and 1 PM. I hope they can overnight a PCM to me. I wish Tunes vould be done through computer. Would make life so much easier. (without a AutoCal wise).
Problems so far:
-Oil dipstick doesn't want to come out of the engine block (bathed it in penetrating oil, and cut some off, clamped vise grips on it, and hit vise grips with a hammer, still didnt come out)
-fuel system seems a little different (outline below)
-no EGR on 6L motor/intake mani. (I will be deleting the whole EGR setup)
I do have one question about my fuel system, that I dont know the difference between 5.3 & 6.0.
The fuel lines coming from the truck, going to the stock fuel system on the 5.3L has two lines going to it, and the 6L only appears to have one. What do I do? As I'd really like to keep the 6L fuel rails. I'm pretty sure the 5.3L had a bummed fuel injector or two.
5.3L setup (in truck)
6L setup:
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Looks like the lq4 has a return less system and your 5.3 was return style. You should be able to swap just the rails (clean them well first) and keep the 6l injectors. That way you will keep the return style fuel rails. I could be wrong but somebody will correct me if I am lol.
Sent from Tapashit
Sent from Tapashit
I have one of those "which is faster" questions. Basically just becuase my older cousin has to be better than me at everything, and has always thought my truck was a POS. I'd love to shut him up, at least for 5 minutes.
Will my truck be able to beat his in a race now after the 6L swap?
My truck:
-6" lift
-32" Trail grapplers
-3:73 gears, 4x4 (running no front Dshaft right now)
-stock trans W/ 2600-2800 RPM stall)
-LQ4, stock everything, with a BBP 87 octane tune
-cold air intake/no cats/single bullet muffler
His truck:
-2011 Sierra 1500 4x4 crew
-3.42 gears (I think)
-5.3L with K&N CAI & Magnaflow cat back
-levelled with 265/70/17 Duratracs
Thoughs? I think I should be able to take him now. Hope so anyways
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How do you disconnect the rail from the crossover tube?
And to anyone who has done a 6L swap, and used stock headers. Did you have to leave off the manifolds when installing into truck? To get motor mount bolts in? Or can I bolt the manifolds to the motor, then drop it into truck?
Will my truck be able to beat his in a race now after the 6L swap?
My truck:
-6" lift
-32" Trail grapplers
-3:73 gears, 4x4 (running no front Dshaft right now)
-stock trans W/ 2600-2800 RPM stall)
-LQ4, stock everything, with a BBP 87 octane tune
-cold air intake/no cats/single bullet muffler
His truck:
-2011 Sierra 1500 4x4 crew
-3.42 gears (I think)
-5.3L with K&N CAI & Magnaflow cat back
-levelled with 265/70/17 Duratracs
Thoughs? I think I should be able to take him now. Hope so anyways
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How do you disconnect the rail from the crossover tube?
And to anyone who has done a 6L swap, and used stock headers. Did you have to leave off the manifolds when installing into truck? To get motor mount bolts in? Or can I bolt the manifolds to the motor, then drop it into truck?
Correct. Swap your 6.0l injectors to your 5.3l rail. Make sure they get a good seal. Vaseline helps :naughty:
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That'll be a close race. Those new 5.3ls make more power than your 6.0l. Once you're cammed with headers you should win. I'd wax newer silverados, tundras, and f150s all day in mine.
The crossover just pulls out I think. Make sure not to damage your fuel pressure regulator.
I took all manifolds off.
Like Ryan said, leave the crossover...the fuel line comes off the crossover/fuel rail tho.
you nee one of these to remove the flexible line from the hardline on the rail/crossover
Like others said, use your rail but keep the 6L injectors. Id remove the manifolds since Id install new gaskets.
Like Ryan said, leave the crossover...the fuel line comes off the crossover/fuel rail tho.
you nee one of these to remove the flexible line from the hardline on the rail/crossover
Like others said, use your rail but keep the 6L injectors. Id remove the manifolds since Id install new gaskets.
Yea, going to buy a fuel line disconnect set today.
Manifolds are already off, and new gaskets will be going on. I just don't know If I should leave them off, and install manifolds in truck, or install manifolds onto motor on engine stand, then drop motor into truck as one unit.
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If I cant beat him in a race im going to run into him. He probably might as I know my tranny is going to hate life behind the 6L having to shift at WOT
how did you pull the 5.3 out? If you pulled it out with manifolds, then slap them on right now :shrug: manifolds are no big deal...easy to get to
ok, ive never pulled an engine out of a NBS but Ive done LTs and head swaps....looks as if the steering shaft is in the way of pulling the engine out with manifolds, but I guess you could remove it? idk. Id slap them on once the engine is in there, would be one less thing to get in the way
the starter and motor mounts are a pain to get to with the manifolds on imo
I don't think it'll go in easy with manifolds on.
I've dropped a motor in with the entire exhaust system still in the truck, just with LT's splayed to the sides just a bit. Probably not a great idea putting stress on the exhaust like that, but we did it.
Just make SURE you do not bump the motor into the torque converter when you're rocking it down onto the mounts. You can smash the pump very easy doing that.
And your 60e should be just fine on WOT upshifts. It's the random stomped heavy throttle downshifts that will kill it fast.
5.3's and 6.0's had same fuel systems, but just differed between years. Stick with the return style. I'm surprised by your 6.0 having returnless style fuel system; it appears to be slighly older with the tall style oil pressure sending unit. Looks super clean though! Nice score on that motor.
How oily were the intake runners?
I'd get a pcv catch-can on there asap after you get motor in. You'll be amazed by how much blow by you dump out from it regularly.
Does your cousin's 2011 have the 6spd? I can never remember what years they became standard...
I've dropped a motor in with the entire exhaust system still in the truck, just with LT's splayed to the sides just a bit. Probably not a great idea putting stress on the exhaust like that, but we did it.
Just make SURE you do not bump the motor into the torque converter when you're rocking it down onto the mounts. You can smash the pump very easy doing that.
And your 60e should be just fine on WOT upshifts. It's the random stomped heavy throttle downshifts that will kill it fast.
5.3's and 6.0's had same fuel systems, but just differed between years. Stick with the return style. I'm surprised by your 6.0 having returnless style fuel system; it appears to be slighly older with the tall style oil pressure sending unit. Looks super clean though! Nice score on that motor.
How oily were the intake runners?
I'd get a pcv catch-can on there asap after you get motor in. You'll be amazed by how much blow by you dump out from it regularly.
Does your cousin's 2011 have the 6spd? I can never remember what years they became standard...
I will drop the motor in without manifolds then, shouldn't be too hard to tighten bolts in with motor installed in the truck. And The motor is out of a 2002 (last year for DBC). I already swapped in that oil pressure sensor, as it is needed to work with my truck, the one that came on the motor was a short unit.
And so To somewhat prolong tranny life would be manually downshift on the column to pass people, versus just standing on it and letting it downshift in Drive?
And the intake manifold that came on the 6L is perfectly clean, with zero dirt/oil in it. The intake mani that came off the 5.3L is COATED in oil and sludge. It's disgusting. It's so bad I have to clean out my entire intake tube.
And yes, his has the 6 sp. I'm 99% sure it has 3.42's
It was a 2002 but has return less fuel system??? dafuq, that doesn't make any sense. What was the lq4 out of?
Manual downshift is a controversial topic, but that is what I do. My Silverado has a b&m ratchet shifter installed in the console so I'm always rowing it wishing I could get a t56 with autotrac!
Many shift kits will hold the gear in 1 and 2, but shift normal in D.
Manual downshift is a controversial topic, but that is what I do. My Silverado has a b&m ratchet shifter installed in the console so I'm always rowing it wishing I could get a t56 with autotrac!
Many shift kits will hold the gear in 1 and 2, but shift normal in D.
2002 silverado 2500HD is what the motor came out of.
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Well, a handful of bruises, scrapes, blood, and skinned hands. The motor is out. Took roughly 10 hours, half by myself, but this also includes assembling new motor, and working off and on.
I had zero broken bolt issues, everything came out without a hitch, outside of my own mistakes (missed 2 bell housings bolts originally).
I didn't have to remove the manifolds, as motor mounts werent too bad to get too, but had to hold back some zip ties, and disconnect the steering shaft.
Getting the torque converter bolts (allen keys) was a HUGE PITA. They were in there effing tight.
The motor swap definetly was more of an under taking than I envisioned, but jump in head first, verse tip toeing in I guess.
I got all the 6L fuel injectors switch over into the 5.3L fuel rails, and installed into the 6L Intake manifold. Tomorrow's job is to install torque converter, and clean entire engine bay, paint, de-grease, and probably zip tie together/back some misc wires, etc....
Got the LQ4 a little more assembled.
i
Dat fresh steering damper...
Nice progress!
I'm surprised your firewall insulation isn't torn yet, lol, mine is all fucked on the Sierra.
Nice progress!
I'm surprised your firewall insulation isn't torn yet, lol, mine is all fucked on the Sierra.