Important!: So I decided to go lower...not much, but lower without a doubt.
- Thread starter Jared
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Youve heard my opinion before, but I really like drop coils and drop leafs. Was very comfortable for me, and handled awesome - even though it was all ground force; belltech, McG, or DJM might be even better. It was firm, but never spine-shattering like everyone seems to think this setup is. At 4in in the rear i did not need a notch (althought at 5in it wouldve been a good idea), helpers werent necessary at that height, but would be nice to haul/tow, get a bit of lift, and for going lower. I never had a problem with alignment with only coils or with coils and spindles. You could go lower with shackles (5 or 6 inches) easily in the rear. Being that money is no option order some Fox or King reservoir shocks on all 4 corners for utmost comfort and driveability. Just some options - all depends on whether you want a bit of a firmer ride or you want to keep the cushy stock ride while closer to the pavement.
16" spindles i have been told are better but had to flip upper bj. Reason behind it is so you have better angles and dont put the bj in a pinch. Also with doing that it will help for alignment and gaining back almost full turning radius that you would loose with spindles. Noe did the 16" spindles and flipped the upper bj so ask him how he likes it and if it was hard. I mentioned the btsp shocks because its what i had, i liked them since i like a more sporty feel and stuffer being how low i was. As brandon mentioned, if money isnt an issue and want best ride then get some fox or king resi's. Desert1500 had king resi's on his 6/9 nbs rcsb and said it rode amazing.
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My issue with that is resale. Many people do not want a notched truck unless they planned on being low for sure. Makes it harder to market it. I don't want to end up taking a big loss or waiting for every if I do decide to sell.
I don't know for sure if I will sell it or not, but I like having the option on my side.
I don't know for sure if I will sell it or not, but I like having the option on my side.
Just want to throw this out there about ride Jared. Most of our rides are pretty to really stiff. When you lower, you want a somewhat tight and responsive shock b/c the more floaty ride, the better chance you have to rub tires in suspension cycle.
so you want to keep the stock-style ride?
if that is the case you will want to stick with spindles and a flip kit for a mild drop, and you wont need to make future plans (i.e. notch) to go lower!
All I know, is fuck how it rides right now (we dont know why), I do not fucking want any more Sherman tank ride imo
well fuck. jareds finally deciding to lower the cc.
16" mcg spindles and flip w/ 2" shackles, Fox reservoir shocks. done. don't ask questions. just do it.
i technically didnt "flip" the BJ, i just relocated it on top of the control arm. its supposedly to help with achieving the drop from what ive heard/read. also lost turning radius too. you'll lose turning with both 16" and 17" mcg spindles, heard that too. bt spindles i dont think you lose turning radius
16" mcg spindles and flip w/ 2" shackles, Fox reservoir shocks. done. don't ask questions. just do it.
i technically didnt "flip" the BJ, i just relocated it on top of the control arm. its supposedly to help with achieving the drop from what ive heard/read. also lost turning radius too. you'll lose turning with both 16" and 17" mcg spindles, heard that too. bt spindles i dont think you lose turning radius
they wont work with your truck. and they are fucked if you ask me. come over this weekend and ride in my truck, it rides like dick, and it's stock. new wheels tires, TRE's shocks, alignment and balance.
still dick. waiting on reply about warranty for them.
still dick. waiting on reply about warranty for them.
Like everyone else said if you want to keep your "factory" ride go 2/4 with the 16" MG spindles, flip kit and 2" lift shackle. I did the 16" spindles on the Silvy and didn't loose any turning radius. You will need to move the lower ball joint to the top of the control arm instead of inside of it. The spindles will come with an aluminum spacer to put in the place of the ball joint. It's really not bad if you have a grinder, center punch and a mall.
MG next to the stock spindle.
MG next to the stock spindle.
just drill the rivets out or press them out. I used a 3/8" drill bit and drilled about halfway down the rivet then used a press from harbor freight and they came right out. Probably 10 minutes per arm. And for the turning radius you can use a grinding disc to grind around the lower BJ mount and then smooth it all out with a flap disc to clean it up. Just put them on the truck and see where they hit the arm at and then grind some of it off until you're happy with the turning radius. From what I've read though you lose turning radius with all lowering spindles. Heres some pics I found of the spindle mod. Some people have to trim more then others and alot of it has to do with ride height I think.
stock(dezert1500's pic)
after grinding(dezert1500's pic)
(GMracers pic)
and you can also grind some on the bolt heads (dezert1500's pic)
