It cracked the back half of my transfer case by the seal. No biggie. Or in 2wd terms, broke the extension housing.
Rear end was unaffected
Samuels 05 sierra crewcab build
- Thread starter Samuel6731
- Start date
It cracked the back half of my transfer case by the seal. No biggie. Or in 2wd terms, broke the extension housing.
Rear end was unaffected
Yep tail housing
that's what I was worried about however I didn't see any fluid at all. Going to find out this weekend though
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that's what I was worried about however I didn't see any fluid at all. Going to find out this weekend though
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Welp Cam and the yank came in today. Going pick up my drive shaft tomorrow and a transmission jack. Hope to start Saturday morning getting the yank in, then doing the 2pc DS swap, and possibly starting on my exhaust. Cam will be soon.
Junk
EPS truck torque 3, rather big but its not my daily anymore so I wanted a top end cam
yank SST billet, 4000 rpm stall. :troll:
~for anyone who cares or is into cars~
heres my shit box daily driver. 2000 Civic EX coupe.
Not bad getting 30mpg as of now. Has greddy exhaust (cat back), anti body roll bars, PWjdm intake, buddy club short throw shifter w/ weighted aluminum knob, Buddy club front and rear camber kits, rear camber bars, dropped on fully adjustable coilovers (form and fuction type 1s)
Real JDM B16 swap, still finishing up rebuilding it. Wont be long.
Ignore junk fourwheeler. No engine stand and wasnt buying one for this so yes its tied up to the rafters.
Junk
EPS truck torque 3, rather big but its not my daily anymore so I wanted a top end cam
yank SST billet, 4000 rpm stall. :troll:
~for anyone who cares or is into cars~
heres my shit box daily driver. 2000 Civic EX coupe.
Not bad getting 30mpg as of now. Has greddy exhaust (cat back), anti body roll bars, PWjdm intake, buddy club short throw shifter w/ weighted aluminum knob, Buddy club front and rear camber kits, rear camber bars, dropped on fully adjustable coilovers (form and fuction type 1s)
Real JDM B16 swap, still finishing up rebuilding it. Wont be long.
Ignore junk fourwheeler. No engine stand and wasnt buying one for this so yes its tied up to the rafters.
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Yea I guess to eliminate any noise from it.
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Lolz not my daily and wanted a top end cam so I needed it. Also this phat crew cab.
I have one year of free restall so if it's to much ima send it back and have them build it to 3800
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I was thinking about a 3200 for my C10. I may be getting a cammed 350 from my buddy so we will see.
Sent from my b hole
Well guys finished her up. Got the yank and 2pc shaft in! I have zero vibration what so ever from the driveshaft swap. The torque converter was very easy and quick having a trans jack was a huge help. The 2pc swap wasnt so bad just have to be very precise with centering and setting angles having a plasma cutter and Mig machine made fab work super fast for the cross piece.
yank SST 4000 LS. Remember guys if your going with a yank converter you need to shim it when bolting her in place yank has specific allowance for the gap allowed. Ensure the snout has no ruff edges sand down any if needed. Dont fill it all the way with fluid for itll just dump out when you try to place it inside the tranny because youll have to stand it up I put about a quart in it.
Remove the transmission bring it back and down just enough so you can get the converter out.
Front of truck looking under
When putting your new converter in slide the shaft into the snout and spin the converter back and forth slowly slightly pushing in at the same time. Do not shake the converter. The spines must line up 3 different times, every time they line up the converter will slide further onto the shaft. Once its all the way one you should roughly have about a finger gap behind the converter between it and the bell housing. (may be different for other converters)
This is the trans jack i used its a friends. Best thing to have if you plan on doing this on the ground. Doing this with a normal jack would be a confukulation.
Here is my cross member before i cleaned it up. 2.5" square tubing 3/16 think i made a T with that. Then i welded 3/16 plate i cut out over the bull of the T.
There are fuel lines inside the frame rail of the CCSB so instead of fighting them and welding the cross member inside of the frame rail I boxed in the frame with some plate and welded my crossmember to that.
Plasma cutter FTW
another, was a tight fit under the truck but overall it went smooth.
I cannot get the converter to lock up, Im getting the p0740 code which is the TCC solenoid faulted. So unfortunately i have to pull the pan and change that asap. DNW to drive around with a non locking 4k stall.
Here is a little video of me playing around. Remember It wont lock so it seems alot worse than it really is. Truck lacks on top end because i havent had time to install the cam yet. This is headers, tuned by me, and cai only.
http://s210.photobucket.com/user/samuel6731/media/20140119_144200_zpsf8efc1d5.mp4.html
yank SST 4000 LS. Remember guys if your going with a yank converter you need to shim it when bolting her in place yank has specific allowance for the gap allowed. Ensure the snout has no ruff edges sand down any if needed. Dont fill it all the way with fluid for itll just dump out when you try to place it inside the tranny because youll have to stand it up I put about a quart in it.
Remove the transmission bring it back and down just enough so you can get the converter out.
Front of truck looking under
When putting your new converter in slide the shaft into the snout and spin the converter back and forth slowly slightly pushing in at the same time. Do not shake the converter. The spines must line up 3 different times, every time they line up the converter will slide further onto the shaft. Once its all the way one you should roughly have about a finger gap behind the converter between it and the bell housing. (may be different for other converters)
This is the trans jack i used its a friends. Best thing to have if you plan on doing this on the ground. Doing this with a normal jack would be a confukulation.
Here is my cross member before i cleaned it up. 2.5" square tubing 3/16 think i made a T with that. Then i welded 3/16 plate i cut out over the bull of the T.
There are fuel lines inside the frame rail of the CCSB so instead of fighting them and welding the cross member inside of the frame rail I boxed in the frame with some plate and welded my crossmember to that.
Plasma cutter FTW
another, was a tight fit under the truck but overall it went smooth.
I cannot get the converter to lock up, Im getting the p0740 code which is the TCC solenoid faulted. So unfortunately i have to pull the pan and change that asap. DNW to drive around with a non locking 4k stall.
Here is a little video of me playing around. Remember It wont lock so it seems alot worse than it really is. Truck lacks on top end because i havent had time to install the cam yet. This is headers, tuned by me, and cai only.
http://s210.photobucket.com/user/samuel6731/media/20140119_144200_zpsf8efc1d5.mp4.html
Well ordered the tcc solenoid and pwm solenoid with a new internal harness..... Hoping this corrects the problem and allows the tcc to lock up.
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Update time.
Transmission is fixed. I changed the TCC solenoid and PWM solenoid in the valve body and now all is good Converter locks up!
Also go the exhaust and cut out installed finally!
Still have not installed cam, waiting of my gaskets from texas speed and performance. Should be installed within the next 2-3 weeks.
Ruff pictures but all i have at the moment.
Cutout is touching frame rail so ill be unbolting the cutout and rotating it so its no longer touching!
When i changed the solenoids wasnt all that bad, just have to remove other crap to get to them.
Transmission is fixed. I changed the TCC solenoid and PWM solenoid in the valve body and now all is good Converter locks up!
Also go the exhaust and cut out installed finally!
Still have not installed cam, waiting of my gaskets from texas speed and performance. Should be installed within the next 2-3 weeks.
Ruff pictures but all i have at the moment.
Cutout is touching frame rail so ill be unbolting the cutout and rotating it so its no longer touching!
When i changed the solenoids wasnt all that bad, just have to remove other crap to get to them.
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You DO NOT want this pile of shit. trust me.
its all fun in games till it breaks! Which with a 4k stall and my foot its a matter of time!
I run a 3 gallon tank. 2 viair 275 compressors. 2 valves. 160psi pressure switch.
I have the AVS 99-07c over head mounting kit. 2 gauges with their switches.
This was while i was rewiring the whole on board air. So no these wires arent just ran like this
Got a bunch of tickets by some bitch ass cop. await a huge tax return so may be able to get it then. I need that mani, and some milled 243 heads!!!!!!!
I have the AVS 99-07c over head mounting kit. 2 gauges with their switches.
This was while i was rewiring the whole on board air. So no these wires arent just ran like this
Got a bunch of tickets by some bitch ass cop. await a huge tax return so may be able to get it then. I need that mani, and some milled 243 heads!!!!!!!
Im hoping it comes soon. If so and the money allows im going to buy some milled 243s or buy some and get them milled.
My goal is to spend this motor to 7000, Reason i bought a top end cam and big stall. These shit box 706 heads and mani are restrictive. I can spin it that high (6800-7000) but with heads/mani swap it would be alot better.
Then NOS will be added :trolldance2:
Update. O2 sensor is out so made a order from rock auto for some new ones. Truck running like poo without it.
Ordered my Tru cool 40k to keep this verter cool.
Pics will come this weekend when it's installed.
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Ordered my Tru cool 40k to keep this verter cool.
Pics will come this weekend when it's installed.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk