Making an LBZ Look Halfway Decent on a Teenager's Budget

Thinking about removing the duramax/Allison badge and moving it down to where a vortecmax badge is. Doesn't look right where it is.
Heres a good edited picture of it I've done very little polishing to it.
ydymuta3.jpg



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Looks good.

Have you at least blocked the egr? I know it's spendy to remove them, but the blocker is like $10. Check your glove box for rpo code fe9. If you have it, you shouldn't throw any codes. If the flashpaq can check codes, then if you have a code pop up periodically you can remove it with that.

If you wanna start lowering it on the cheap, drop the tbars some and throw a 3" shackle on the back.

Don't do a boosted launch without sleeves. Gotta remember that the tie rods on the 3/4 and 1ton are the same pieces of shit on a 1500. If the rods don't go, eventually the pitman and/or idler will.

Transgo in a 5 speed is not worth it. In a 6 speed it is. I say not in a 5 because you have to pull the trans out and modify the input drum. Your 6 speed you just drop the pan, pull the valve body, drill a couple holes, swap a couple springs, and voila. What's your flashpaq adding to the crank? 50hp? Should be safe.

Post up a list of what ya have done in your first post maybe. I got lost in all the comments lol


Oh, look into a pump rub fix if it hasn't been done, or you might end up replacing the Tcase, or the whole drivetrain on the truck.
 
Looks good.

Have you at least blocked the egr? I know it's spendy to remove them, but the blocker is like $10. Check your glove box for rpo code fe9. If you have it, you shouldn't throw any codes. If the flashpaq can check codes, then if you have a code pop up periodically you can remove it with that.

If you wanna start lowering it on the cheap, drop the tbars some and throw a 3" shackle on the back.

Don't do a boosted launch without sleeves. Gotta remember that the tie rods on the 3/4 and 1ton are the same pieces of shit on a 1500. If the rods don't go, eventually the pitman and/or idler will.

Transgo in a 5 speed is not worth it. In a 6 speed it is. I say not in a 5 because you have to pull the trans out and modify the input drum. Your 6 speed you just drop the pan, pull the valve body, drill a couple holes, swap a couple springs, and voila. What's your flashpaq adding to the crank? 50hp? Should be safe.

Post up a list of what ya have done in your first post maybe. I got lost in all the comments lol


Oh, look into a pump rub fix if it hasn't been done, or you might end up replacing the Tcase, or the whole drivetrain on the truck.

Thanks man! EGR delete is next up. More than likely doing the blocker plates. That's good info on the RPO codes ill check em tomorrow, and my supershits flashpaq adds roughly 80 hp and 120 tq crank hp and will read/clear codes.

I don't plan on ever launching in 4wd. Doesn't interest me as I'm not trying to go fast anyway. Will still probably get sleeves eventually but I can do without launching in 4wd. Not a race truck in anyway.

Need to do the PCV reroute also. It's all time and money though. I read about the pump rub, how difficult and expensive is the fix? Have you done a shift kit in a 6 speed ally? How hard is it to fuck the valvebody up?

And I'm not touching the suspension until I do the big drop I want because I plan on just a flip kit with stock shackles, and if I put a drop shackles in now I'd have to remove it later anyway, and it'd add to the cost.

As of today the truck as far as performance mods go is
AFE CAI
4" MBRP straight pipes
Superchips flashpaq


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People have broken tie rods with out being silly, just on the trails in 4wd and snap. There a good idea weather you race, speed, or just drive like grandpa.

Shift kit is no biggy. I'll be dropping my whole trans in month or 2 and building it. I do race mine, and my converter is thundered. If you go onto duramaxforum, duramaxdiesel, or diesel place, there are DIY sections that show how to install both the pump rub and the transgo jr. I didn't have time to do them myself, so I had a shop do it while the tranny had filters and fluids changed. The jr would have been a simple thing to tackle. Pump rub is a little more of a pain in the ass, but doable if you are patient, and you seem to be. You shouldn't have a problem doing either of them yourself.
 
People have broken tie rods with out being silly, just on the trails in 4wd and snap. There a good idea weather you race, speed, or just drive like grandpa.

Shift kit is no biggy. I'll be dropping my whole trans in month or 2 and building it. I do race mine, and my converter is thundered. If you go onto duramaxforum, duramaxdiesel, or diesel place, there are DIY sections that show how to install both the pump rub and the transgo jr. I didn't have time to do them myself, so I had a shop do it while the tranny had filters and fluids changed. The jr would have been a simple thing to tackle. Pump rub is a little more of a pain in the ass, but doable if you are patient, and you seem to be. You shouldn't have a problem doing either of them yourself.

This truck is highly allergic to dirt hahaha. Trails aren't for me. Performance mods will come with time, as the truck runs good as is, and things I tinker with tend not to run all that great :lol: I'm kinda at the stage of "If it ain't broke don't fix it" But eventually all those things will come.


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Either Ryan or Dakota did this photoshop Ryan sent it to me. Looks real lmao. I sent that pic to my dad and he said, "where did you get those wheels"
sysusu3u.jpg



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you guys do remember he has to run 2" spacers to run those rims.... so he is going to be way to wide to run at 5/8
 
you guys do remember he has to run 2" spacers to run those rims.... so he is going to be way to wide to run at 5/8

They widened the track width for the newer trucks these rims come on. Those rims have a shit load of positive offset. And they make 1.5" adapters, and even with a 5/8 I won't tuck tire at ride height. Plus cornell said that even with his 2" spacers his wheels barely sit Flush with the fender. And they make those wheels in replicas in my bolt pattern worst case scenario. I should be more than fine...


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They widened the track width for the newer trucks these rims come on. Those rims have a shit load of positive offset. And they make 1.5" adapters, and even with a 5/8 I won't tuck tire at ride height. Plus cornell said that even with his 2" spacers his wheels barely sit Flush with the fender. And they make those wheels in replicas in my bolt pattern worst case scenario. I should be more than fine...


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:themoreyouknow: lol good to know i figures you would be way too wide....if a deal pops up on these rims on Craigslist around me i am picking them up for sure... i think i will pick up 1.5" spacer for the front and 2" for the rear to make the track width a bit more even