i only torque engine internals, and lug nuts, everything else is tights tight, too tights broke
ITGuy's 2003 Sierra 1500/2500 4x4 RCLB Build Thread
- Thread starter ITGuy
- Start date
:hahano: Yes, I use a size chart for general torque #'s but will change it if installation calls for it.
I also use red / blue Loctite which I don't mention much. On a couple of occasions, the mods called for a 'little' red, but I would use liberal amounts of blue.
I made a lot of things 'serviceable' though, so I can get them back apart. Not going to be putting 100K on this thing anytime soon, but I do want to continue to do my own maintenance. I do have to torque the calipers tonight while bleeding them. They are @ 100ftlbs and should be more like 220ftlbs. Probably a little loctite wouldn't hurt either.
I also use red / blue Loctite which I don't mention much. On a couple of occasions, the mods called for a 'little' red, but I would use liberal amounts of blue.
I made a lot of things 'serviceable' though, so I can get them back apart. Not going to be putting 100K on this thing anytime soon, but I do want to continue to do my own maintenance. I do have to torque the calipers tonight while bleeding them. They are @ 100ftlbs and should be more like 220ftlbs. Probably a little loctite wouldn't hurt either.
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Brakes are bled, but still squishy. I'll try again tomorrow.. they are better though.
Also just threw an engine light when I started it today.. tomorrow for that too lol.
Torqued on the sway bar mounts, drivers side LCA.. double checked a few other things.
I have to cut the wheel 1/2 way to the right to go in a straight line, but got it out of the garage.
Here is where we are at.. lowering the bed and lining it up. Got the front bolts started.
Also just threw an engine light when I started it today.. tomorrow for that too lol.
Torqued on the sway bar mounts, drivers side LCA.. double checked a few other things.
I have to cut the wheel 1/2 way to the right to go in a straight line, but got it out of the garage.
Here is where we are at.. lowering the bed and lining it up. Got the front bolts started.
I'm honestly surprised you didn't break out a paint marker to mark the already torqued bolts like they do in the factory, nothing wrong with that or taking your time to check and double check everything is torqued properly but it's crazy to me because I have the mindset of Huck and Ginger, engine internals, valve bodies, wheels everything else :doitlive:
Does look good though and you say you are a newb but I would bet somewhere along the line your thread will be used almost as a walk through by someone else because you have covered so much. After totally revamping suspension and brakes on this plus the work you did to the 1500 you are out of the newb stage, maybe still a little green but deff not a newb. Good work sir cant wait to see it done :shake:
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I think I know why you have a gap. You used the bumper from the 1500 right? 2500HD rear bumpers have like little wings on the back to cover up the gap, whereas the 1500 one does not because the 1500 bumper sits up closer to the tailgate than the 2500 bumpers do
Yep, was doing a little research on it. No worries then.
- air pressure all the same in tires
- Lugs are on w/ impact wrench.
- adjusted outer passenger tie-rod all the way in to at least get the tires closer to pointing in one direction :hahano:
- bed is on, secured with 4 bolts on endpoints
Next I will take some measurements from center hub to wells, all the way around, and get those torsion bars set.
On my first pass they were within 1/2", but it could be uneven ground.
Also pulled a P0033 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit from my OBD II scanner.
I'll get a few more things cleaned up and then limp it down the road to the car wash to give it a good cleaning.
- air pressure all the same in tires
- Lugs are on w/ impact wrench.
- adjusted outer passenger tie-rod all the way in to at least get the tires closer to pointing in one direction :hahano:
- bed is on, secured with 4 bolts on endpoints
Next I will take some measurements from center hub to wells, all the way around, and get those torsion bars set.
On my first pass they were within 1/2", but it could be uneven ground.
Also pulled a P0033 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit from my OBD II scanner.
I'll get a few more things cleaned up and then limp it down the road to the car wash to give it a good cleaning.
hopefully not a drive thru wash :scared: invest in some adam's, chemical guys, scg, etc. Especially with that new paint. Keep it looking 100 :thumbsup:
Self-Serve, high pressure wand. Cleaned it up a bit.
Right turns are interesting though, since I only have 1/2 the range lol.
Measured my fenders from the ground.
Front D.Side is 44 1/4" from the ground
Front P.Side is a hair over 45"
Right turns are interesting though, since I only have 1/2 the range lol.
Measured my fenders from the ground.
Front D.Side is 44 1/4" from the ground
Front P.Side is a hair over 45"
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OK I got [from the ground] height :
drivers rear 44"
Driver front 45 3/16
passenger rear 44"
passenger front 45 3/16 ...that's like 31.5" from hub center to fender. Hard to believe I can't get it lower.
Passenger side is sitting on adjustment block, drivers side was about an inch lower and now cranked to match.
This is as low as I can get it without going back to my stock 2500hd keys. I might make that decision tomorrow.
Also cleared my code, and it hasn't come back yet. Might have just been from sitting a couple of months.
Parked it for the night now that the front is leveled.
next update will include
- alignment
- Bleed the brakes a bit more, torque calipers and inspect lines
- colormatched fender flares
- rear fender wells
- AFs & Toyos
Brought my gauges back in for some adjustments, but I like the blue LED's for sure.
Monday / Tuesday
drivers rear 44"
Driver front 45 3/16
passenger rear 44"
passenger front 45 3/16 ...that's like 31.5" from hub center to fender. Hard to believe I can't get it lower.
Passenger side is sitting on adjustment block, drivers side was about an inch lower and now cranked to match.
This is as low as I can get it without going back to my stock 2500hd keys. I might make that decision tomorrow.
Also cleared my code, and it hasn't come back yet. Might have just been from sitting a couple of months.
Parked it for the night now that the front is leveled.
next update will include
- alignment
- Bleed the brakes a bit more, torque calipers and inspect lines
- colormatched fender flares
- rear fender wells
- AFs & Toyos
Brought my gauges back in for some adjustments, but I like the blue LED's for sure.
Monday / Tuesday
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thats they you have no crank in them.
you should have went with stock 1500 keys, they level the 2500s' the leveling keys aka ford keys lift them 1500s, lifting the 2500's even more
you should have went with stock 1500 keys, they level the 2500s' the leveling keys aka ford keys lift them 1500s, lifting the 2500's even more
You lost me bud. I was just saying that the Cognito Keys are giving me too much lift.
Some people have suggested that the Cog keys are basically what the 1500's would do.
So to lower it, maybe 3/4", I should go with 1500 keys? I thought going back to my stock keys would work?
It feels like I am at 6" of lift with no cranking! It's taller than the back.. which has the 3" block. 4" Block would be level with a 6" lift from my understanding.
Just dropped it off for the alignment. We chatted about installing new keys, and they told me they will prep it to be about an inch lower than it presently sits.
I gave the shop the specs from Cognito. The two guys at the shop love how its setup though. Its nice when people can appreciate the work.
I'll track down some 1500 keys for it. I went back to look at my slips, and those are 2500 lift keys.. At least the paperwork says so. Its quite possible they are for a 1500.
I'll run it like this until I can get new keys.
Next up, flares, wells, and wheels!
I gave the shop the specs from Cognito. The two guys at the shop love how its setup though. Its nice when people can appreciate the work.
I'll track down some 1500 keys for it. I went back to look at my slips, and those are 2500 lift keys.. At least the paperwork says so. Its quite possible they are for a 1500.
I'll run it like this until I can get new keys.
Next up, flares, wells, and wheels!
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