BARBER's 2011 Chevy LML Duramax
- Thread starter BARBER
- Start date
No...use a 3 inch hole saw that came with the sump. These tanks are tougher and thicker than a person thinks!
those sumps are a good idea ...my buddy was running a 72mm danville billet turbo, a AD lift pump, kory willis 220hp tunes, and 60 over injectors and he wasn't getting over 400hp. ran like a 398hp.
he was raging. then he sent a data log to kory and he recommended the sump mod and he ran 620hp at alligator performance dyno with out any other changes.
oh and that accident sucks hope you get it taken care of :up:
he was raging. then he sent a data log to kory and he recommended the sump mod and he ran 620hp at alligator performance dyno with out any other changes.
oh and that accident sucks hope you get it taken care of :up:
Sooooo.....you're saying he gained 220 horse by putting the sump on?
okerface:Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
They say it's a 5 minute install. That's a lie. It's mounted below the stock pickup and getting that thing pushed up and the inner retaining ring inside was the biggest PITA. I tried getting it down as low as possible but still drained out 6 gallons.
I'm thinking I'll take some plastic wire loom and wrap the line coming up along the tank so it doesn't stand out so much. For example, someone who wants to slash that line.
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Sooooo.....you're saying he gained 220 horse by putting the sump on?okerface:
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Technically yes... But that's just cause he had no rail pressure and it doesn't really run right without fuel
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It took longer than expected. Draining the roughly 6 gallons out through a small hole drilled in the tank probably took the most time. Drilling up into the tank took a while with the cheap hole saw they included. The biggest hassle was pushing the inner flange into the tank and keeping the stock pick up pushed up at the same time was a bitch. The pick ups are spring loaded and I barely had room to get the inner ring pushed inside.
I pondered the idea of a colormatched rear replacement bumper, maybe if I can find one that I like. I think a shaved gate and keep the stock bumper will be the route I go with.
i would keep the chrome bumper because of how much chrome the front of these trucks have on them.
Indaresting. Mine just showed up today lol. Did you put the old fuel back in?
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No I did not. I did dump part of a gallon of the old fuel through after the sump was on and the drain plug removed to flush out any crap from drilling the hole. Otherwise, I had a 5 gallon jug of road fuel to dump back in.
Two and a half weeks later I'm still waiting on a phone call from the other driver's insurance company. My adjuster contacted me on Monday after spending a week in the hospital recovering from an injury, told me I should be expecting a phone call this week and to call him if I hadn't heard anything yet. Anxious to get it fixed.
Other than that, nothing new...
Other than that, nothing new...
The other driver's insurance contacted me this week and one of their adjusters arrived yesterday morning to evaluate the damage and wrote me a check. Figured out to a little over $1k damage. A local salvage yard has factory complete rear bumpers in stock. I'm still unsure if I want to go back to a factory bumper or go with a steel full replacement painted to match. If I decide on a replacement, I'll eventually get one on the front to match. The bumpers I found that I like are over $1k. I'm still on the fence about it.
No in the past whenever I have to turn in a claim into my own insurance for any reason, I've always been treated really good by the one adjuster who's been working for our insurance company for years. For example on my '08 when I backed into one of our farm pickups a couple years back, he covered for the Rhino Lined rockers and to have the rear bumper caps powdercoated black (which at that time they were).
For my Duramax, I was paid $455 for a complete rear bumper, said if it was more than that to contact him and they'd cover the difference, and the rest is for an hour repair on the tailgate plus refinishing and all the R&R labor for the bumper, tailgate, tailgate cap, and other details such as new emblems. I'm knowledgeable in the autobody field, I think I came out fair on this deal. Even though, I definately got plans to shave my tailgate and do some extras while I'm at it which will come out of my pocket.
A bunch of big plans finally coming into play this fall. Got parts coming for deleting and tuning this thing finally and hope to do some other goodies. Not much new this summer, just been driving it.
Parts coming:
AFE Atlas 5" downpipe back aluminized exhaust
Fusion full replacement rear bumper (will get pc'd to match)
SoundMan ipad mini 4 side slider kit
Parts I have waiting to install:
HSP Diesel Y bridge kit with turbo inlet and cold side intercooler pipe
HSP Diesel stainless downpipe
128gb ipad mini 4
As soon as I get my underhood parts powdercoated, I'll be deleting the EGR cooler, doing the PCV reroute, and installing the downpipe and exhaust. I'm still undecided if I'll go through my tuner for a tune or else do some Kory Willis AutoCal tunes. I also hope to stick some 33s under it as well soon.
The Fusion rear bumper I got coming. Thinking I'll get some flush mount LED pods to install in this before I have it coated.
Parts coming:
AFE Atlas 5" downpipe back aluminized exhaust
Fusion full replacement rear bumper (will get pc'd to match)
SoundMan ipad mini 4 side slider kit
Parts I have waiting to install:
HSP Diesel Y bridge kit with turbo inlet and cold side intercooler pipe
HSP Diesel stainless downpipe
128gb ipad mini 4
As soon as I get my underhood parts powdercoated, I'll be deleting the EGR cooler, doing the PCV reroute, and installing the downpipe and exhaust. I'm still undecided if I'll go through my tuner for a tune or else do some Kory Willis AutoCal tunes. I also hope to stick some 33s under it as well soon.
The Fusion rear bumper I got coming. Thinking I'll get some flush mount LED pods to install in this before I have it coated.
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