BARBER's 2003 Chevy LB7 Duramax

Ginger said:
plus then your have the bracket to lift the front bumper, and the rear and the fan shroud lol
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True but keep in mind I have a gooseneck hitch that I can't raise. I don't want to be jacking up a trailer an additional inch and a half to hook and unhook each time.

I bet an additional 1/2" or 3/4" would solve my clearance problems. That much would give me good clearance with the bumper because that thing fits like shit and hits my grille.
 
or take the exhaust down and take an air hammer to the cab... i mean your hood is already cut to fit the twins anyway, and then weld a exhaust hanger to pull the down pipe away from the frame.... just a suggestion i feel like its hack but less hack then hockey pucks...
 
Also true, but I still need to do some more cutting on the hood since the charge pipe coming off the s475 hits the hood.

I think I'll check a hardware store and find some thick washers to put under the body. Maybe some 1/4" ones. Then I shouldn't need to get longer bolts.
 
I was just going to suggest washers under the body mounts, much more stable than adding rubber under there. Adding a 1/2" sounds good.
 
Ginger said:
big hammer to the cab, done lol
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i have seen a guy move his fire wall with a small air hammer about 2" to fit a 5" down pipe in the stock location on an LB7. it worked great, he had a little round end on it and just kind of massaged it out of the way...it was like magic.
 
I got an air hammer with a hammer end. It bells out to an inch wide at the bottom. I'll hit the cab with it first and if I need additional clearance then I'll check into adding thick washers to the body.

The exhaust clearance issue is the least of my worries. I got electrical gremlins somewhere else that is wreaking havoc to my cluster and CTS. Priced a new cluster this morning from Digital Dash Solutions. $490 for a brand new one plus $50 for LEDs and another $50 for a black Escalade overlay. No charge for colored needles. They won't take my other cluster back on exchange since this kid in Iowa has already been inside it. He didn't fix the gear indicator. The LEDs have hot and dim spots on the gauges and I bet my overdrive lockout light is still burnt out. FML.

I described what all went ape shit on me last night and told how it wouldn't shift and my CTS was acting weird. She said if something was wrong with the cluster, the cluster doesn't control anything. Basically it wouldn't be causing those issues.

On another similar note, I may have mentioned how the headlight, dome light, and 4wd switches the LEDs were dim and not bright like all the other controls. I talked to the kid who did that work and said those switches probably aren't getting g the full 12 volts to them. I don't know what is going wrong there.
 
sounds like a bad ground somewhere man, those can cause all kinds of problems.

i would check for loose plugs and wires/ make sure if they relocated the battery or re located the ground cable that that's all in order.

i hate wires they scare me
 
Hmm the second battery that was relocated to the bed, I grounded it to the bed bolt.

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Plans for tomorrow evening. Pick it up, take it to my uncle's garage...or if I could possibly do it at their shop...and proceed to check and relocate my grounds. From the factory, the second battery actually grounded down to the engine block. Now its grounding to the frame. I'll pick up some woven ground cables and run one from the engine block to the frame and maybe one from the left battery down to either the frame or block. For the battery in the back, I think I'll bolt it up to a hole in the frame.

Then take my air hammer and try to make clearance on the cab/firewall so the exhaust isn't hitting it. From the outside with it running, it sounds like the old non-turbo'ed Ford Powerstroke motors. Ya know how those things clattered and rattled. Inside the cab...it sounds like the world is coming to an end. :ffuuu:
 
BARBER said:
Hmm the second battery that was relocated to the bed, I grounded it to the bed bolt.

- - - - - - - - - -auto merged double post- - - - - - - - - -

Plans for tomorrow evening. Pick it up, take it to my uncle's garage...or if I could possibly do it at their shop...and proceed to check and relocate my grounds. From the factory, the second battery actually grounded down to the engine block. Now its grounding to the frame. I'll pick up some woven ground cables and run one from the engine block to the frame and maybe one from the left battery down to either the frame or block. For the battery in the back, I think I'll bolt it up to a hole in the frame.

Then take my air hammer and try to make clearance on the cab/firewall so the exhaust isn't hitting it. From the outside with it running, it sounds like the old non-turbo'ed Ford Powerstroke motors. Ya know how those things clattered and rattled. Inside the cab...it sounds like the world is coming to an end. :ffuuu:
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the ford still sound that way lol
 
Except that a properly running 6.0 sounds like its going to throw a rod at any moment while its idling
 
Cleanoh4 said:
Except for when it goes boom, then that's the sound of money to me
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Am not going to clog this fellows thread and have this discussion with your intellect.

The sound and clacking from a 7.3, or a 6.0 comes from the extreme high pressure due to the heui design
 
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