Winter Prep plans

wretched73 said:
845 is TECHNICALLY a sealant. And what is the point of a sealant if the coating over the sealant is still there???

With 845 over top nothing will penetrate to the sealant so the sealant is not really necessary.

I'd just do a spray was after every wash just to add shine
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845 is great stuff and has been around a long time. Can't say a bad thing about it.

FWIW - its a blend product by all indications, so TECHNICALLY it would be a polymer reinforced wax, not a sealant.

As far as layering goes, direct from their own website:

4. Can Collinite Last Step Products (LSP’s) be used in conjunction with an alternative brand sealant?

Between producing, pouring and shipping, we’ve yet to conduct testing with all the sealants out there (too lengthy to list), so this practice cannot be formally recommended. However, sealant + Collinite LSP layering is a common method among Collinite aficionados. Call us with specific questions or check out reliable online forums with inquiries.
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DylanVK said:
845 is great stuff and has been around a long time. Can't say a bad thing about it.

FWIW - its a blend product by all indications, so TECHNICALLY it would be a polymer reinforced wax, not a sealant.

As far as layering goes, direct from their own website:
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No input on whether you would layer a sealant under it?
 
like wretched suggested... spray with WD40 or something that will inhibit/slow it from getting worse.

If it is in the metal though, you're gonna be in rough shape b/c it can easily spread under the paint in a hurry and then you've got much bigger problems.
 
My 04 had surface rust on the rockers from gravel taking all the paint off. I sanded them down, primed, duplicolor bedlined. When I'm on my computer I'll post a couple pics or I think their are a few in my build thread from it. Was supposed to be a 1 winter thing but ended up still being there 3 years later when I traded it.
 
DylanVK said:
like wretched suggested... spray with WD40 or something that will inhibit/slow it from getting worse.

If it is in the metal though, you're gonna be in rough shape b/c it can easily spread under the paint in a hurry and then you've got much bigger problems.
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It is jusr mostly on the metal and im sure in spots in and they do need replacing but considering it's around 3k to have done, my houses heater/ac needs replacing more lol.
Tylers88 said:
My 04 had surface rust on the rockers from gravel taking all the paint off. I sanded them down, primed, duplicolor bedlined. When I'm on my computer I'll post a couple pics or I think their are a few in my build thread from it. Was supposed to be a 1 winter thing but ended up still being there 3 years later when I traded it.
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I think I'll try something like this
 
DeanH1290 said:
Hell, I may just get some of the clear plasti-dip type stuff and coat the bottom half of the truck after the sealant, then peel it off in the spring.
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This. Spray a good 5-6 coats of matte clear/gloss mix from the body line down. Peel when the season is over.
 
Matt I'd say just top her off with some collinite wax and call it a day. That shit is toughh. Think of boat hulls that sit in Salt all season long, get pulled out and are still beading great. Just use that to protect the paint over the winter, then when spring comes around give her another touch up, then try the ceramic coatings

As for Mike, 3k for rocker repair? You're better off traveling 2 hours North to where Bryan got his done for 1.4k lol

Sent from my Galaxy S-Fawhore
 
Bassmaster said:
Matt I'd say just top her off with some collinite wax and call it a day. That shit is toughh. Think of boat hulls that sit in Salt all season long, get pulled out and are still beading great. Just use that to protect the paint over the winter, then when spring comes around give her another touch up, then try the ceramic coatings

As for Mike, 3k for rocker repair? You're better off traveling 2 hours North to where Bryan got his done for 1.4k lol

Sent from my Galaxy S-Fawhore
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I wonder if the sea salt is the same as the road salt though. Also considered the scratch resistance of a coating. Would help mitigate the marring caused by salt hitting the lower portion
 
Salt isn't going to have any impact in terms of marring, pitting maybe.

The bigger concern is the corrosion it causes/accelerates.
 
DylanVK said:
Salt isn't going to have any impact in terms of marring, pitting maybe.

The bigger concern is the corrosion it causes/accelerates.
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I think the problem was last winter I had done a rinseless wash when I really needed a traditional wash cause when spring came around I had little scratches not quite wash swirls but then again I don't wash my truck in a circular manner

Regardless I may end up going the traditional route unless I can get some time to get after the remaining 20% of my correction. Orange peel and RIDS need to be addressed. I don't wanna coat it just to strip it off in the spring would be a waste of a coating
 
the rinseless wash doesnt get rid of the large debris before your wiping. thats why you swuirled the shit out of it. its more to get rid of rain grime or dusting. any time you have large amounts of contaminates, you need a real wash, the the large stuff gets knocked off before it gets rubbed into the paint.

i told you, DIY car wash to blast the major shit off. no brush or anything just a blasting, then if you really want bring buckets and shit to the DIY and wash it there.


BTW if you dry it, the salt wont stick to it on the way home.
 
Ginger said:
the rinseless wash doesnt get rid of the large debris before your wiping. thats why you swuirled the shit out of it. its more to get rid of rain grime or dusting. any time you have large amounts of contaminates, you need a real wash, the the large stuff gets knocked off before it gets rubbed into the paint.

i told you, DIY car wash to blast the major shit off. no brush or anything just a blasting, then if you really want bring buckets and shit to the DIY and wash it there.


BTW if you dry it, the salt wont stick to it on the way home.
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I did the spray down anytime before I did the rinseless
 
go under cab, look for little plastic caps above rockers, popped them off, clean inside there, then seal it with something to keep shit from starting rust in there
 
Fourstar07 said:
go under cab, look for little plastic caps above rockers, popped them off, clean inside there, then seal it with something to keep shit from starting rust in there
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Thanks for the advice I did that on the driver side in the summer when I thought the a/c was leaking gotta do it on the passenger side though
 
Was suppose to winter prep today but is pouring. Might break and try when it stops but it's gonna be a process.
I folded and I'm gonna try a coating. Went with CarPro Cquartz UK. Semi permanant coating that can be applied in low temps, perfect cause it's already low 30's here.

For the tires and trim I got Black Pearl Trim and Tire Armour. More traditional style product but suppose to have sealant/coating type properties.

For the glass I have CQUK FlyBy30 also from CarPro it was stupid cheap and just decided to add it on.

Going with all this to hopefully have less clean up in the spring cause last winter really took a toll on my paint
 
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Iron X to remove imbedded contamination then eraser after polishing to clean up polish oils kinda like IPA to make sure paint is bare

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One 4oz bottle is matte or satin and the other is glossier. I will use the satin for the trim and the glossier version for the tires. Omni clean is the prep cleaner suppose to be stupid strong gonna use it in conjunction with shine supply wise guy tire cleaner

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FlyBy30 glass treatment probably a glorified rainx but it was 12 bucks so fuck it.

Not picture is CarPro Reload which is there spray sealant that is designed to top the coating. Has to put it in a different bottle since the recommendation is to cut it 50% with water for dark paint.

Also got a 5" denim polishing pad to attempt to remove my orange peel on my repainted panels but without a paint depth gauge I'm gonna have to be careful.

Also gonna have to do small test areas of the CQUK on my single stage paint. It's not designed to be a replacement clear coat so using it in this fashion may damage the actual paint
 
i already have a layer of sealant on mine from 2 weeks ago, i will prolly layer on 2 more coats. as for other prevention. WD40 now makes this shit that you spray and it is supposed to last for either 6 months or a year to keep any bare metals from rusting.

Im going to spray the inside of my rockers and shit with that.
 
Gotta talk to the painter when it's done, but planning on putting two layers of the scg sealant on the truck as soon as I can. If I have to, I'll do the cab back until its safe to do the hood and fenders.
 
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