This thing is great, the blazer i bought had one - would recommend. Interested in hearing opinions on other devices.
Time for a Alarm/Ignition Switch
- Thread starter bgray
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This thing is great, the blazer i bought had one - would recommend. Interested in hearing opinions on other devices.
My trans an had a chip, pull it out and nothing, it was hidden, and just looking at it you would think it was something like an OBDII port.
I thought I was smart and pulled it when the car was totaled, but fuck ass USAA does not allow you to buy back your car, and refused to tell me where it was going for auction. Someone got one hell of a low mileage LS1 for dirt cheap as they would have thought the motor was locked up.
I thought I was smart and pulled it when the car was totaled, but fuck ass USAA does not allow you to buy back your car, and refused to tell me where it was going for auction. Someone got one hell of a low mileage LS1 for dirt cheap as they would have thought the motor was locked up.
Hey Fellas
Just to update.
I ended up getting a keyed Switch for the truck to use as a Kill switch
Pulled up a wiring diagram and found fuel pump power POST ECM. It was on the 2nd connector pin 9 I beleive. I cut that wire, ran 2 lengths of wire through the OEM Wiring harness, through the firewall and into the cabin. Connected them to that switch and mounted the switch a a very sneaky and sleek spot. When the key is turn to the right on the cylinder the truck has fuel pump power. When the key is out, theres no power to the fuel pump.
I went this route because Alarms don't really do much, most people don't flinch when one goes off. The wagon burners are gonna break into the truck regardless, Im just trying to stop them from taking the truck.
Just to update.
I ended up getting a keyed Switch for the truck to use as a Kill switch
Pulled up a wiring diagram and found fuel pump power POST ECM. It was on the 2nd connector pin 9 I beleive. I cut that wire, ran 2 lengths of wire through the OEM Wiring harness, through the firewall and into the cabin. Connected them to that switch and mounted the switch a a very sneaky and sleek spot. When the key is turn to the right on the cylinder the truck has fuel pump power. When the key is out, theres no power to the fuel pump.
I went this route because Alarms don't really do much, most people don't flinch when one goes off. The wagon burners are gonna break into the truck regardless, Im just trying to stop them from taking the truck.
Yes it is totally separate. When the key is removed the truck will not start
Its not so much a hassle, I only take it out in areas where Theft would be apparent(malls, shops, movies etc).
Its not so much a hassle, I only take it out in areas where Theft would be apparent(malls, shops, movies etc).
What he said ^^ I guess the same concept would work with just a regular switch?
Sent from my iPhone 4s
Sent from my iPhone 4s
yah same concept with any switch. No tossed the diagram. I tapped into frm the pcm. Ill look up what pin on the connector it was
Ok. On the 2 ecm connectors for the pcm under the hood is where you need to look. If you unbolt the both connectors and and remove the wire covers there will be numbers cast right into the connector listing the Pin #. You need pin 9(my truck was dark green/white wire), On one connector there will be no 8,9,10 pins being used, the other has them being used. Thats the easiet way to identify which connector is right. One you find it, cut the wire, trukc should not start, or if it does, it will for a brief second then run outta gay.
Those of you with Viper alarms should already have a starter disable on the alarm. Arm the alarm while sitting in the driver seat, and try to start the truck with the key. If the alarm is installed properly, the engine will NOT start , and the alarm should go off.
If parking in a suspect area, you can always remove your fuel pump fuse or ECM fuse to prevent the truck from starting as well.
If parking in a suspect area, you can always remove your fuel pump fuse or ECM fuse to prevent the truck from starting as well.
I use to do that Scotty boy, Until my buddies truck was stolen. They got smart and brought relays and fuses when they jacked it lol
Good point. If a "professional" car thief is plotting on your truck, stalking you and comes prepared to disable your alarm and all, then 9 out of 10 times they will get your truck. But for crooks just cruising parking lots and happen to like your truck and try to steal it, most likely they won't be prepared to defeat your anti theft measures.
In a nutshell, every anti theft device you have is one more obstacle for the thief. So they all help. But if a pro wants your truck, he will get it by any means necessary, even if he ends up towing it away.
When I lived in New Orleans, I had a 87 Cutlass. That was a highly desirable car among car thieves. It was broken into about 4 times, but never stolen. I had a two way alarm with starter kill, an ignition kill switch, a steering column "collar lock" (to prevent breaking into the steering column to try and start it), a detachable steering wheel, plus I also had a hood lock. I had that bitch like Fort Knox. Lol.
Another thing for the NBS's you can do just as an extra step to try to keep them outta the truck is Jimmy Jammers for the doors. We put them on my buddy's truck and somebody tried to break into it like 3-4 months later. All they did was break the door handle/ding up the door. Sucked but they didn't get in
hu:
Ok. On the 2 ecm connectors for the pcm under the hood is where you need to look. If you unbolt the both connectors and and remove the wire covers there will be numbers cast right into the connector listing the Pin #. You need pin 9(my truck was dark green/white wire), On one connector there will be no 8,9,10 pins being used, the other has them being used. Thats the easiet way to identify which connector is right. One you find it, cut the wire, trukc should not start, or if it does, it will for a brief second then run outta gay.
I know what you meant but did jest @ run outta gay.