Lifted 02 Sierra Z71
- Thread starter a-fuso
- Start date
That's impressive, especially with some of the stuff you've towed. My 05 started going at 162k, I towed a good bit but nothing seriously heavy. I just killed it with my right foot lol
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Update, got my rebuilt trans back from the shop on Friday, can't install until this weekend though. Few upgraded parts include the beast sunshell, 5 pinion planetary, raybestos z-pack clutches, upgraded low roller, new input and output shafts, trans go shift kit, aluminum accumulator piston, and corvette servo I can remember off the top of my head. The core trans I brought in was completely grenaded inside so basically everything is new. Got a PDQ 2300-2500 stall converter rated for towing, and a tru-cool 40k trans cooler coming in the mail.
Also sent some parts out for powder, since I need lower ball joints decided to have a pair of lower control arms powdered so I can press in new bushings and ball joints. Other parts at powder include a mag hytec transmission pan, sway bar, shock clamps, smoothed valve covers and my front traction bar brackets that I scraped when trying rock crawling (never again)
Got some new chrome parts too, but I'll wait on pictures before I say what.
Also need to rebuild my power steering pump and hydro-booster and swap the front crank seal since they are all leaking oil.
Lots to do this weekend, would like to paint the front frame as well, but I may wait until I pull the lift down later and re-gear the front differential.
Also sent some parts out for powder, since I need lower ball joints decided to have a pair of lower control arms powdered so I can press in new bushings and ball joints. Other parts at powder include a mag hytec transmission pan, sway bar, shock clamps, smoothed valve covers and my front traction bar brackets that I scraped when trying rock crawling (never again)
Got some new chrome parts too, but I'll wait on pictures before I say what.
Also need to rebuild my power steering pump and hydro-booster and swap the front crank seal since they are all leaking oil.
Lots to do this weekend, would like to paint the front frame as well, but I may wait until I pull the lift down later and re-gear the front differential.
Right at $2k, I carried it in, so it would be a little more if they had to install it in the truck too.
Well It took me 3 weekends to accomplish the trans swap and some associated maintenance I've been needing to do.
Started with removing the old trans and t-case, removed my exhaust and headers, both drive shafts, and pressure washed under the cab to remove all the oil and dirt buildup from under neath and inside the frame rails, and pressure washed the t-case. Had my machinist friend mill down the fins on my new trans pan.
Then I installed the trans and converter, bolted on the t-case and refilled with new GM autotrak fluid, and installed the new trans pan. Installed the factory manifolds and y-pipe for smog inspection, and put the front drive shaft back after painting it gloss black.
Also pulled the rear axle apart to see why my brand new pinion seal was leaking after the gear install. Gears looked like they are wearing great. Turns out when I ordered the new pinion seal and yoke from a 98+ with the factory dust cover and wear sleeve, it is too deep for my housing, so the yoke wear sleeve was not actually inside the pinion seal just touching the edge f it and the pinion seal was touching the bearing when installed in the housing. Ended up doing some measuring and removing the factory wear sleeve and using a '97 down seal correct for my axle housing, then everything went together great and no leaks as of yet. Put the axle back together with a new crush sleeve since I pulled everything apart trying to find the problem.
A picture of the wear pattern, doesn't get much more centered.
I made a new aluminum top bracket for my tru-cool 40k trans cooler install, got compression fitting and flipped the passenger cooler line 180* as a few people suggested on pt.net. I reused the original lower mount by flipping it upside down, notching for clearance of the trans line, and drilling a few new holes. The cooler fits and looks like factory, I'm very proud of that part.
Next problems were in the front of the engine, my crankshaft seal was leaking a little and so was the power steering pump and hydrobooster. Removed the ps pump and harmonic balancer, replaced the crank seal, reinstalled the balancer and tightened to spec with a new bolt (old bolt was loose and came off by hand).
Bought a rebuild kit for the ps pump and decided to tackle it myself, very simple to do, GM has been using the same saginaw pumps since 1960, only needed simple hand tools to rebuild the pump. Cleaned and painted it gloss black too.
Finally got the front end of the engine back together and swapped out the hydroboost unit quick, went to fire it up and had no brake return from the booster, fucked around for a while before realizing I forgot to swap over the plunger and return spring from the old booster to the new one. Added 12 quarts of atf and drove it a little and the trans still read low, so got 2 more quarts for a total of 14 before the dipstick had a satisfactory level.
And all finished up, ignore the rusty stock y-pipe
I'm still getting used to driving with this 2400 rpm stall, really weird to me for the engine to rev up and trans shift through the gears with almost no drop in rpm until the converter locks.
I will clean up the truck this weekend hopefully and take some more detailed pictures of some of the rest of the setup. Got a bunch of new powdercoated parts done, have yet to install most of them. Everything needs a good cleaning since a lot of parts ended up oily from all the work. And the truck passed smog this past weekend so when I get some free time I will remove those ugly stock manifolds and put my headers back on again.
Started with removing the old trans and t-case, removed my exhaust and headers, both drive shafts, and pressure washed under the cab to remove all the oil and dirt buildup from under neath and inside the frame rails, and pressure washed the t-case. Had my machinist friend mill down the fins on my new trans pan.
Then I installed the trans and converter, bolted on the t-case and refilled with new GM autotrak fluid, and installed the new trans pan. Installed the factory manifolds and y-pipe for smog inspection, and put the front drive shaft back after painting it gloss black.
Also pulled the rear axle apart to see why my brand new pinion seal was leaking after the gear install. Gears looked like they are wearing great. Turns out when I ordered the new pinion seal and yoke from a 98+ with the factory dust cover and wear sleeve, it is too deep for my housing, so the yoke wear sleeve was not actually inside the pinion seal just touching the edge f it and the pinion seal was touching the bearing when installed in the housing. Ended up doing some measuring and removing the factory wear sleeve and using a '97 down seal correct for my axle housing, then everything went together great and no leaks as of yet. Put the axle back together with a new crush sleeve since I pulled everything apart trying to find the problem.
A picture of the wear pattern, doesn't get much more centered.
I made a new aluminum top bracket for my tru-cool 40k trans cooler install, got compression fitting and flipped the passenger cooler line 180* as a few people suggested on pt.net. I reused the original lower mount by flipping it upside down, notching for clearance of the trans line, and drilling a few new holes. The cooler fits and looks like factory, I'm very proud of that part.
Next problems were in the front of the engine, my crankshaft seal was leaking a little and so was the power steering pump and hydrobooster. Removed the ps pump and harmonic balancer, replaced the crank seal, reinstalled the balancer and tightened to spec with a new bolt (old bolt was loose and came off by hand).
Bought a rebuild kit for the ps pump and decided to tackle it myself, very simple to do, GM has been using the same saginaw pumps since 1960, only needed simple hand tools to rebuild the pump. Cleaned and painted it gloss black too.
Finally got the front end of the engine back together and swapped out the hydroboost unit quick, went to fire it up and had no brake return from the booster, fucked around for a while before realizing I forgot to swap over the plunger and return spring from the old booster to the new one. Added 12 quarts of atf and drove it a little and the trans still read low, so got 2 more quarts for a total of 14 before the dipstick had a satisfactory level.
And all finished up, ignore the rusty stock y-pipe
I'm still getting used to driving with this 2400 rpm stall, really weird to me for the engine to rev up and trans shift through the gears with almost no drop in rpm until the converter locks.
I will clean up the truck this weekend hopefully and take some more detailed pictures of some of the rest of the setup. Got a bunch of new powdercoated parts done, have yet to install most of them. Everything needs a good cleaning since a lot of parts ended up oily from all the work. And the truck passed smog this past weekend so when I get some free time I will remove those ugly stock manifolds and put my headers back on again.
Great work on that trans pan, the milling really sets it off.
So what's the deal with the rear end seal? You have an "older" style rear end or something?
So what's the deal with the rear end seal? You have an "older" style rear end or something?
OBS 14 bolt IIRC
Awesome work dude. Sucks she needed so much work all at once but at least it's all good now. Love the trans pan
Sent from a dingleberry
Awesome work dude. Sucks she needed so much work all at once but at least it's all good now. Love the trans pan
Sent from a dingleberry
My axle came from an '88 obs, they used an open style yoke that is known for pinion leaks since the seal flange is exposed, that's why I changed to the newer yoke to get a fresh sealing surface and the dust cover to hopefully prevent premature wear. No idea what will happen, but a new yoke is only $45 from AAM, so if it grooves out the new yoke I will just buy another one and replace it.
Ya I've been saving up to do all the work at one time really. Still need ball joints done, valve cover gaskets, and to install some more powdered parts
I love the trans pan too, to bad no one can see it unless you lay under the truck lol
Ya I hate smog, but I'm getting pretty good at swapping headers every 2 years. My truck has finally gone to obdII plug in test only, no more sniffer required. So hopefully in the future, if I can find a smog shop that doesn't care whats under the hood, it passes the computer portion just fine, don't even have to swap out tunes.
#caliprobs Nobody gives a shit here. Plug it in, wham bam thank you ma'am. No sniffer either, just a gas cap test
Sent from a dingleberry
Sent from a dingleberry