Advice on lift for DD

Rode pretty much like stock IMO, I couldn't tell a difference.

I will agree with this, I put a rough country level in my buddies 08 and I gave hime my 2" blocks to replace the factory 1.25 blocks and it rode the same. If I ever end up with a NNBS ill just get a rough country 2.5" kit with blocks.
 
Although I like the look of lowered trucks, I don't want mine lowered. My truck gets worked from time to time and I tow trailers on occasion, so it doesn't make much sense for me to lower it anyways.

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Not starting a war here, but lowered trucks can still be worked and used to tow. Setup properly, they're usually better than lifted trucks to tow with :pepper:

Imo, go with a 2-2.5" level and go up in tire size when the time comes. It'll look clean, drive well, and it won't get old jumping in and out of it if it were higher.
 
Not starting a war here, but lowered trucks can still be worked and used to tow. Setup properly, they're usually better than lifted trucks to tow with :pepper:

Imo, go with a 2-2.5" level and go up in tire size when the time comes. It'll look clean, drive well, and it won't get old jumping in and out of it if it were higher.

Would prefer to work out of a low ass truck than a lifted one. Fuck dragging heavy shit from the front of the bed and having to climb in the bed or on the tire to grab it. Fuck that.


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Would prefer to work out of a low ass truck than a lifted one. Fuck dragging heavy shit from the front of the bed and having to climb in the bed or on the tire to grab it. Fuck that.


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I have to do that anyway, I'm too damn short, lol

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Just out of curiosity, what would need to be done to correct the tierod issues?

I work in a machine shop and might be able to make something if its as simple as adding a spacer or something.

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really not a good way to correct it, heims would work but you want to keep tierods as parallel to the lower control arm as possible to prevent/reduce bumpsteer
 
OK. Well I think I may just go with a level for now and save up for a 6" lift and some tires. I'm not really in the position to spend an extra grand right now. Plus, there's still about 23000 miles left on the warranty.

With that said, can someone help me get a better idea of the difference between the 2" and 2.5" kit from rough country? It looks like the 2.5 actually lifts the rear some. Will it leave some rake, or will it only bump up enough to match the front?

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The last thing I would ever do with a level is lift the rear. So far the best advice has been a 2" level and leave it at that. Anything higher I would buy a complete kit and keep all the angles as flat as possible.
 
You'll likely have a bit of rake if you get that 2.5" kit and put in the 2" rear block. My truck was within 1/4" of being completely level with the 2" kit. The difference between the 2" and 2.5" kits in the front is the addition of the small upper spacer which gives you the extra 0.5". It all depends on the stance that you want. If you want the truck to be dead level front to back, I'd go for the 2" kit, if you want it to be a little higher in the nose, grab a 2.5" kit like the one from Top Gun Customz and use your stock block in back. Here's TGC's 2.5" kit TGC: 2.5" 07-14 GM/Cadillac 1500 Pickup/1500 SUV Front Leveling Lift Spacers
 
So, from what I understand, the 2.5 kit should make the back end sit .5" higher than the front?

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I think I've decided to go with the 2" rc kit. The price point is what is selling me on it atm. Now just have to decide where to get it from.

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topguncustomz makes a nice 3in level kit for these trucks id say do that on some tires and you would be good unless you do like a small 3in lift kit from rough country.