4wd lowering FAQ

You said that 4x4's all have a 2" lift block, that, when removed, will give an automatic 2" drop. I drive an 05 sierra 1500 4x4, and want a 2" drop in the rear to level the truck. Would this vehicle have the block as well? I was under the assumption I would need to install drop shackles for the 2" drop, however if all i have to do is remove the lift block and put on new u bolts, it may be the best case scenario.
 
Macnsteez said:
You said that 4x4's all have a 2" lift block, that, when removed, will give an automatic 2" drop. I drive an 05 sierra 1500 4x4, and want a 2" drop in the rear to level the truck. Would this vehicle have the block as well? I was under the assumption I would need to install drop shackles for the 2" drop, however if all i have to do is remove the lift block and put on new u bolts, it may be the best case scenario.
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That is correct, removing the block will drop it 2 inches and it would sit like a stock 2wd in the rear. So removing the block and adding a 2 inch drop shackle would net a bigger drop out back (4" from stock 4wd height).
 
Thanks Michael. I've also read that 4" is the max drop you can go without implementing a c-notch into the frame, which I do NOT want to do. I've heard some people say that they have still implemented the c-notch to give the suspension more travel, saying they experienced knocking on the frame when just the 4" drop (before the c-notch). Anyone else experience this?

Also, if the 2" lift block is removed, it was stated I would need new u-bolts to replace the current 4x4 u-bolts. Any idea what some good products are, or where to find them?
 
The 4" drop applies to a 2wd suspension drop. So in your case, it would take 6" of drop to really need a c-notch. Removing the 2" block and adding 2" shackles will be perfectly fine and you wont be slamming your frame any time soon.

Yes, you will need shorter u bolts. I get all my ubolts made at big rig suspension shops. They bend them to your specs on the spot.
 
05_Silverado, I definately appreciate the input. I really wanted to go with the 4" drop in the rear, but heard several people saying they were knocking their frame. Glad that applies to the 2wd only. I know they have U Bolts at basically every auto parts store, just want to know if they are any good, or if i should order a specific brand.
 
OEM u-bolts are not round....they are squared. Im not sure if autozone or oreillys sells those. Theyre not as strong as oem either, but they work. I bought a set for a ranger of mine n they held up to the little abuse I gave them.
 
I got my u bolts from SD Truck Spring out of Long Island, NY when I lowered my truck. Can order pretty much anything you could want. They've held up great for the last 3 years.
 
I just had a quick question, I am going 6/8 on my RCSB 05. 3 inch spindle, 3" Djm arms. Do I need upper and lower arms or can I get by with just the lowers? Will 4wd still work with that size drop?

I have the flip kit, c notch and shackles for rear. Just waiting to buy the front stuff if anyone could help out. Are 22s to big in a drop like that?

Also does anyone know which Djm arm part number I need?
 
At 6" you will not be able to run cv axles without binding. The lowest I could get away with without problems was 5".

I'm not aware of any 3" drop spindles for these trucks. Belltech and Mcgaughys both make 2" spindles for the 4wds. You have to run 17+ spindles.

You have to run upper control arms with the lowers iirc. I wouldn't waste my money personally. They gave me bad bumpsteer. And I didn't really gain anything from them other than a little bit of turning radius that I could have gotten by simply grinding the spindles. Just my opinion though. You can run spindles and keys and get 5-5.5" up front.

Wheels would depend on offset but you could run 22s with the right offset and right size tire.

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Okay I had seen the 3" drop spindles on eBay I believe. Maybe I was mistaken. I had someone tell me if you run 2500 keys flipped it will give you 3" of drop? Is this true?

Do I just pull my CVS out? What do I put over the holes in the front diff? Sorry I've lowered 100 2wd never 4wd
 
LowAnSlow said:
Okay I had seen the 3" drop spindles on eBay I believe. Maybe I was mistaken. I had someone tell me if you run 2500 keys flipped it will give you 3" of drop? Is this true?

Do I just pull my CVS out? What do I put over the holes in the front diff? Sorry I've lowered 100 2wd never 4wd
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Not sure about flipped keys. There is only 1 way for them to go in the right way. I got 2.5" of drop out of my 2500 keys.

If you just want to pull your cv's out, you will have to run the axle stub that goes through the hub as that's the only thing holding the hub together. There aren't any holes in the front diff. The cv axles bolt to the differential, they don't slide into it like rear axles would.

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Thank you for the help. Much appreciated I haven't honestly been under it yet to check everything out so I didn't know they didn't have cv like the rear would. I can just unbolt the cv and pull it out and then remove the stub from the end? Then essentially it'll be 2wd for good? Or until I lift it up and put it back in. I am looking for 5 to 6 in front so my best bet is spindles and the 2500 keys? I plan to run the 20" gmc reps on it. Don't want nothing to flashy. I should be tearing into it once I order my front stuffn and it arrives.
 
So I'm wondering if this will work on a obs suburban. I've got the lowering bug and finally have a chevy to do it with but it's 4wd. I want to lower the front as much as possible and I think I want to c notch and bag the rear so I can tow still and maybe drag the ass lol. Am I dreaming or can it be done? It won't be till next year but if I can get it dropped for cheep I can do that now


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Dakota said:
Seems like we've been having a lot of 4wd lowering questions here lately so I thought I would make a thread for questions and reccomendations..

Front: there are a few different ways you can lower the front end of a 4x4, depending on how low you want to go and what you wanna spend..

-4wd use torsion bars in the front as opposed to coils used by 2wd, the torsion bars have torsion keys which allow you to adjust the height of the front end..to adjust the torsion keys raise the front end of the truck all the way off the ground letting the suspension hang..then locate the torsion bar crossmember, in the middle of the crossmember you will see a bolt head sticking out on each side, loosening the bolt will lower and tightening will raise the front end.
Decranking stock keys won't get you much drop but simply swapping in a set of 2500 keys and decranking will net around 3" of drop
In order to swap keys you will need to get the front end off the ground letting the suspension hang, then you can rent a torsion key removal tool (some auto parts stores may not have them) but a ball joint press tool works great too, place the top part of the ball joint press/torsion bar tool on the top of the crossmember and tighten it up to get the tension off the key, then knock the torsion bar out of the key, swap in the new keys and put it back together then repeat for the other side. Then loosen to achieve wanted drop.

-Spindles can be used but you must run 17+ spindles due to the cv axles. When installing spindles you have to cut the balljoint studs off flush with the bottom of the nut in order to clear the cv axles and make clearence for 17" rims. You can pair 2" drop spindles with decranked 2500 keys for 5" drop.
-lower control arms can be used for the front and can be bought in 3" and 4" drop, these should be paired with upper control arms in order to correct camber. This is the most expensive route but also rides the best.

Rear: the rear on a 4wd is basically the same as 2wd, only difference being that 4wd's have a 2" lift block from the factory. Removing this will get you a free 2" but you will need 2wd u bolts. Everything else can be done the same as 2wd..
-shackles
-hangers
-flip kit
On to some pictures
This was removed blocks and 2" shackles, stock up front
IMAG0548.jpg

This was flip kit with decranked 2500 keys
IMAG0587.jpg

Flip and shackles, decranked 2500 keys and 2" spindles with stock shocks(not reccomended)
IMAG0599.jpg

Same drop after adding belltech street performance shocks for 5/8
IMAG0658.jpg

IMAG0660.jpg

Decranked keys, spindles, flip kit, shackles, 3" blocks and helpers
IMAG0803.jpg

IMAG0804.jpg


Any questions or information to add feel free to post them here or pm me
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Hey all! Can't see the pictures but I'm wondering what year 2500 keys do you use? I'm assuming the matching year. So my burb is a 99 obs so I'd look for an obs 2500 for the keys right? And the rear I'm just removing the block and getting a 2 inch shackle to basically do a 3/4 drop? I still want to tow with my burb so I'll add the airbags or air shocks to help with that. I just want to have it lowered to a nice stance look good with some nice wheels.


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Are the 2500 burbs leaf sprung? If not, and you're looking at a whole different strategy to lower the rear
 
Yea their leafs. But mine is a 1500 and I think the 2500 had a bigger leaf in the rear.


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