Tune gone after amp install?

Low01silveradO said:
1 problem you have is that's wayyyy too big. The fuse under the hood should equal(or be at most 10A more than) the sum of the amperage of the fuses on your amp.

My amp has 4 30 amps fuses which = 120A so I have a 120A fuse under the hood.

I believe you said your amp has a 20A fuse so you need a 20-30A under the hood.

With 100A fuse and the amp only drawing ~20A, you can actually burn the wire over time.

I see this way too much. Sure a lot of amp kits come with 100A fuse, but most people don't need that.

I've seen problems with this first hand when my buddy's amp kept cutting out last year and I found out he had 2 30s on the amp and 100A fuse under the hood. We put a 60A fuse under the hood, problem free.

Change that first and then see if it still feels sluggish.

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Like you said, came with the kit, why its in there. I will swap it out with a 30a, for good measure, but even still that leaves my current draw over the amperage of the alternator so I don't see it fixing the issue. But for the cost of a fuse I'll try that first for sure. Thanks
 
Cleanoh4 said:
Like you said, came with the kit, why its in there. I will swap it out with a 30a, for good measure, but even still that leaves my current draw over the amperage of the alternator so I don't see it fixing the issue. But for the cost of a fuse I'll try that first for sure. Thanks
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No problem. Yea I'd def change it so you don't have other issues. Go 25A if it's available. It'll be plenty.

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Ok so here's the issue, they used a mini anl fuse, which might as well not exist locally in that low of an amperage. So I bought a agu holder and am going to convert it over with a much easier to find 25a agu tube fuse
 
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Cleanoh4 said:
Ok so here's the issue, they used a mini anl fuse, which might as well not exist locally in that low of an amperage. So I bought a agu holder and am going to convert it over with a much easier to find 25a agu tube fuse
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Good choice. ANL is great for 80+ amps. You will be fine with AGU or the plastic fuse box that I can't remember the damn name of

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So 30a was all I can find locally. Figure that will work, gonna swap it over tonight, will report any change.
 
Ok so that's swapped out and I'm glad it is. However, I'll be ordering the 200a suggested above as it still just doesn't feel right. Will report back once in, unless there are other suggestions but the math seems to support it.
 
Cleanoh4 said:
Ok so that's swapped out and I'm glad it is. However, I'll be ordering the 200a suggested above as it still just doesn't feel right. Will report back once in, unless there are other suggestions but the math seems to support it.
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I'd say that'd be the next step to get the 200A alt. Charging should be a lot better.

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Decided I am going to do the big three along with the alt swap. There's little things I've noticed that I hope the combination of both will alleviate


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Low01silveradO said:
There's a company on ebay that sells 200 amp alts for our trucks. I bought one for my old tahoe. It is very slightly oversized but fits perfectly fine in the stock location and I never had a problem with mine. I bought it because I had an underdrive crank pulley. The alt also came with a smaller than factory pulley so it's spins a little quicker. I'd recommend it. The store name on ebay started with a B but I don't remember the exact name

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Same stock belt?


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JennaBear said:
As I mentioned, alt can cause issues, but usually noticeable at idle. I have seen folks have major problems just from adding efans, due to lack of elect power.

Could even be something as simple as a bad tank of gas, dirty throttle body or MAF.

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Its funny you mention this, if been noticing for a while that my AC was much weaker at a red light/idle.


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Gannon said:
That's how you learn though. Yea, try a relearn. Just can't wrap my mind around how a alt would reduce hp. That would mean the alt is spinning slower, which would mean your motor is spinning slower, reducing power.but the motor is going to spin on average 600-800rpms.
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Think about it... same reason you lose power if you have your A/C running. Your engine is turning the Alternator. The more current you draw, the more it takes to turn the ALT... effectively robbing horsepower.
 
Oktain said:
Think about it... same reason you lose power if you have your A/C running. Your engine is turning the Alternator. The more current you draw, the more it takes to turn the ALT... effectively robbing horsepower.
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I can see that to a certain point, but when it get to where it's so noticeable you think you lost your tune, just doesn't sound like an alt problem.


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Well 200a ordered and on its way...let's hope that's it. Figure that plus big 3 I'll be golden


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Gannon said:
I can see that to a certain point, but when it get to where it's so noticeable you think you lost your tune, just doesn't sound like an alt problem.


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Without the fuse in the amp, drives normal. Fuse in, is when it's affected. That plus the math seems to point to a power supply issue.
Nothing else has changed so I can't see where there would be any other problem.


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