rear bag setup on the low

Okay, just letting you know you're probably gonna need all new leader hoses, I think the check valves are shot.
 
I say this because I'm brutally honest when it comes to vehicle people expect to drive around other people, but that chassis should not be on the road.
that is a terrible design and worse execution.
 
Tukn4s said:
I say this because I'm brutally honest when it comes to vehicle people expect to drive around other people, but that chassis should not be on the road.
that is a terrible design and worse execution.
Click to expand...
:shake:
pretty sure im no longer hackmaster billeh, that titles def been taken
 
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Tukn4s said:
I say this because I'm brutally honest when it comes to vehicle people expect to drive around other people, but that chassis should not be on the road.
that is a terrible design and worse execution.
Click to expand...
Gotta agree with you on that one.
 
we got it like that and for what it is I dont know that it would be worth fixing unless its something that can be done easily. Any of you care to show me how it should be done?

What is involved with replacing those parts Zach?
 
I'd get some 2x2 1/4" and get some crossmembers in there and make sure that back half doesn't snap before those outter link bar ends for starters.

Call Ekstensive metalworks in Houston and ask them how much viair replacement 380 leader hoses are. Probably about $15 a piece. They're open right now.
 
that frame needs back halfing, you should shoot whoever sold that thing to you and if you are thinking about selling it like that to someone else shoot yourself. would just scrap it and write it off as a loss before i sold that thing like that
 
want help, heres some advice,


that frame needs a lot of help, it should have atleast 1 x member under the cab, where the notched read part is, needs atleast 1 more cross member. the link setup needs to be completely redone. also some gussets or weld supports should be welded in on the rear half.

the link setup needs to be completely redone. aswell as the mounting points if you wanted coils still if not new mounting points need to be made for the bag setup.

the coils between the axle and frame isnt even close to proper them being staight up and down and the ones on the shocks being on angles makes no sense to me.

the reverse 4 link setup isnt the best setup either, depending on how you want to do your bags, you should put a standard triangulated 4 link on it.
 
That is not a reverse 4 link.

the first step to fixing this is to gusset the inside and outside of the frame welds.
It needs a crossmember halfway between the tranny crossmember and before the step and one at the top of the step. remove the crossmember the coilovers are on.
the springs also need to be removed.

Now with a clean slate that is gusseted and supported, you can properly mount the linkbars and coilovers.
no more movement that you will be using, I would parallel 4 link the rear with a panhard connecting link on the lowers.
then install the coilovers in the same fashion as before or bags.
 
Tukn4s said:
That is not a reverse 4 link.

the first step to fixing this is to gusset the inside and outside of the frame welds.
It needs a crossmember halfway between the tranny crossmember and before the step and one at the top of the step. remove the crossmember the coilovers are on.
the springs also need to be removed.

Now with a clean slate that is gusseted and supported, you can properly mount the linkbars and coilovers.
no more movement that you will be using, I would parallel 4 link the rear with a panhard connecting link on the lowers.
then install the coilovers in the same fashion as before or bags.
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dont think ginger was saying that was a reverse 4-link, idk about a panhard on this thing though the frame looks like 2" wide
 
sukn8" said:
dont think ginger was saying that was a reverse 4-link, idk about a panhard on this thing though the frame looks like 2" wide
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what he's referring to as "not the best" is not the setup this chassis has. So why bring it up if he means something different?
not a panhard bar. I said a panhard connect link. 2 different parts that do the same thing
Panhard bar connects the axle to the frame.
panhard connecting link is a diagonal link that connects near the frame mount on the passenger lower link bar and near the axle mount on driver side lower link bar, or vice-versa.
same aspect as pro street cars use on ladder bar suspension
Jim Meyer Racing Products - 36" to 48" Ladder Bar Suspension Kit
 
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This whole frame needs to be set up on a table and gone over. Some of the welds need attention. It appears like it needs more bracing. I see some of the body mounts just tacked on. Frame it self may be use-able with a properly setup link system and some brackets for the bags and shocks.

If your good with metal and welding and can get the material cheap plus air management id say anywhere 500-1000 would do the rear. Wonder what the front suspension looks like :eek:
 
gussets and cross member? Sorry guys and thank you, this is all new to me so the terminology takes me some time to comprehend.

 
Tukn4s said:
what he's referring to as "not the best" is not the setup this chassis has. So why bring it up if he means something different?
not a panhard bar. I said a panhard connect link. 2 different parts that do the same thing
Panhard bar connects the axle to the frame.
panhard connecting link is a diagonal link that connects near the frame mount on the passenger lower link bar and near the axle mount on driver side lower link bar, or vice-versa.
same aspect as pro street cars use on ladder bar suspension
Jim Meyer Racing Products - 36" to 48" Ladder Bar Suspension Kit
Click to expand...
gotcha, i seen those before, i just never seen anyone use one in real life
 
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