NBS Crew Cab going 4/6 I have a few questions

Slow05CC

Slow05CC

Avery@texas-speed.com
Apr 25, 2014
168
0
0
Round Rock, Tx.
I have a 05 Silvy Crew! Right now I am riding on stock suspension with shackles out back on 285/50/20 toyo proxes ( which by the way are the worst tires I have ever bought. ) and 20" Centerline wheels. We have figured out the wheels "should" tuck, if not I will use my Texas Editions that are sitting in the back yard.

Previously I had a 2/4 and it was cool, but not what I wanted so I went back to stock! Well now I have the lowering bug again and want to go 4/6 because crew cabs look badfuckingass at that height.

I will be using spindles and springs for the front and a flip kit for the rear. I am going to have my buddy box in my frame and notch the rear, Seems a lot more solid then a standard c notch kit. Shorter bump stops. Shorter shocks. 275/45/20s

So here goes my questions...

Will there be any additional mods that need to be done?
Drive shaft mods?
Notching cross member for clearance?
I have a 3" Magnaflow exhaust and I was wondering if I have to ditch that tail pipe? really don't want dumped exhaust as my truck is stupid loud as it is!
Will long tubes, off road y, and maggy cat back be an issue?
Are shock relocation brackets mandatory with a flip kit?
What size shims will be needed for proper alignment?
Will I need to roll fenders?
Will caltracs or assassin bars work with a flip kit at 6"? I have some serious traction issues.

If there is anything else I am forgetting please post up! I am starting to get parts together for this project and don't want any surprises once its installed.

Lastly, can anyone recommend a really good and stick 275/45/20 to use on the rear? I spin first and second so hard with these 285/50 toyos that I am a bit nervous to lose height and width.

Thanks a million! I just want to get this done right the first time and not have any loose ends

J.
 
Slow05CC said:
I have a 05 Silvy Crew! Right now I am riding on stock suspension with shackles out back on 285/50/20 toyo proxes ( which by the way are the worst tires I have ever bought. ) and 20" Centerline wheels. We have figured out the wheels "should" tuck, if not I will use my Texas Editions that are sitting in the back yard.

Previously I had a 2/4 and it was cool, but not what I wanted so I went back to stock! Well now I have the lowering bug again and want to go 4/6 because crew cabs look badfuckingass at that height.

I will be using spindles and springs for the front and a flip kit for the rear. I am going to have my buddy box in my frame and notch the rear, Seems a lot more solid then a standard c notch kit. Shorter bump stops. Shorter shocks. 275/45/20s

So here goes my questions...

Will there be any additional mods that need to be done?
Drive shaft mods?
Notching cross member for clearance?
I have a 3" Magnaflow exhaust and I was wondering if I have to ditch that tail pipe? really don't want dumped exhaust as my truck is stupid loud as it is!
Will long tubes, off road y, and maggy cat back be an issue?
Are shock relocation brackets mandatory with a flip kit?
What size shims will be needed for proper alignment?
Will I need to roll fenders?
Will caltracs or assassin bars work with a flip kit at 6"? I have some serious traction issues.

If there is anything else I am forgetting please post up! I am starting to get parts together for this project and don't want any surprises once its installed.

Lastly, can anyone recommend a really good and stick 275/45/20 to use on the rear? I spin first and second so hard with these 285/50 toyos that I am a bit nervous to lose height and width.

Thanks a million! I just want to get this done right the first time and not have any loose ends

J.
Click to expand...

I used the shims that came with my BT flip, I believe they were 4*

I recommend a 2pc DS, but that's just me. Get a sectioned front crossmember

exhaust will most likely need to be rerouted

but the ORY, muffler etc should not be an issue, just the tail pipe area

relo brackets are suggested, not a must

doubt you will need to roll, but the wheels I tried that adjusted had, would not clear on my truck, so I went back to oem

you can get bars with a flip, make sure you buy the correct ones

also, what is your location, please say Texas
 
Slow05CC said:
Will there be any additional mods that need to be done? Might need to notch some xmembers...ebrake cable might need rerouting, bed xmember above axle def needs notching...would recommend a low pro trans xmember...either mod ur oem or buy new
Drive shaft mods? other than using the correct shim, no
Notching cross member for clearance? would not hurt to do this and/or bend the cab pinch welds
I have a 3" Magnaflow exhaust and I was wondering if I have to ditch that tail pipe? really don't want dumped exhaust as my truck is stupid loud as it is! ur gonna have to tuck up the exhaust...way up
Will long tubes, off road y, and maggy cat back be an issue? ORY is better than oem Y....oem hangs REAL low and will scrape
Are shock relocation brackets mandatory with a flip kit? if u run shorter shocks, no....i didnt like my shock extenders, got belltech shocks instead
What size shims will be needed for proper alignment? alignment of wat? no "shims" needed up front....driveshaft angle will have to be measured to get the right degree shim
Will I need to roll fenders? yes...mini tub and roll the lips
Will caltracs or assassin bars work with a flip kit at 6"? I have some serious traction issues. yes...i think vato in texas makes some, way cheaper too...victor iirc
J.
Click to expand...

see above
 
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Slow05CC said:
Thanks for the info! That cleared up a lot of the questions I had!

Yeah I am in Texas haha. North of Austin!
Click to expand...

I have a cross member I will sell you. I am in North Dallas, we can meet one day. I will be heading to Austin in a Month or so, or maybe we can meet around Waco?
 
I didn't have to minitub or roll anything at 4/6. I never hit anything in the rear either. Not until I went to 8". It is better to be safe, but I would not say it is necessary at all. at 8", you better get on that shit, or be stuck like I was. I was also doing 100+ mph and hit a huge dip in the highway with no air, so all 8" drop came crashing down on the DS.

I did not have to touch ANY of my exhaust from headers to muffler when I went 4/6. just where the pipe went over axle

i think me means alignment of DS, if not, no shims are needed for from drop
 
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Jared said:
I didn't have to minitub or roll anything at 4/6. i was running 275/50/20 n rubbed bad...with 29" fronts i still rub the top of the fender on hard hits but not nearly as bad
I never hit anything in the rear either. Not until I went to 8". my axle hit the bed xmember and bent the brake line bracket....u can notch or just bend the bracket down....i notched
It is better to be safe, but I would not say it is necessary at all. at 8", you better get on that shit, or be stuck like I was. I was also doing 100+ mph and hit a huge dip in the highway with no air, so all 8" drop came crashing down on the DS.
my shaft has LIGHTLY touched something cuz its got a shiny ring on it right under an xmember....dnw

I did not have to touch ANY of my exhaust from headers to muffler when I went 4/6. just where the pipe went over axle same....i mean tuck up the over the axle part...not the entire exhaust :rofl:

i think me means alignment of DS, if not, no shims are needed for from drop
Click to expand...

:happehdog:
 
2005_Silverado said:
see above
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!

Jared said:
i think me means alignment of DS, if not, no shims are needed for from drop
Click to expand...

Yes, I am talking about alignment of driveshaft! seems like some kits come with a small wedge. IIRC my stock spring pack has a small wedge so I didnt know if I needed to use that or get one with more angle to it? Its about 1/4" tall and tapers down to almost nothing.

Thanks again for the replies! Id rather know everything I am getting into, so when I get done with the drop stuff be screwed up or done wrong. I know a 4/6 isn't a massive drop but its not a small drop either! people do these on a extreme budget so I know it cant be too complicated

J.
 
ur flip kit should tell u what to use. The oem stuff will probably be junked and all ur gonna need is the shim from the kit and the flip saddles. wouldnt hurt to measure and make sure u have the shim u need once its all installed
 
mini-tub isn't hard, but I really only had problems on big potholes and dips.

seriously look into coilovers up front, best decision I ever made, god it rode so much better. Still isn't a stock ride some some fgts say, it's lowered geometry, it will be more progressive.
 
Jared said:
mini-tub isn't hard, but I really only had problems on big potholes and dips.

seriously look into coilovers up front, best decision I ever made, god it rode so much better. Still isn't a stock ride some some fgts say, it's lowered geometry, it will be more progressive.
Click to expand...

I did check out a few coil over kits, but those are out of my budget right now! maybe if I sold the Silvy 20s I could upgrade but for some reason I cant let them go, and I have centerlines now so I'll likely never use them, unless my lines don't tuck. they are the 20x8.5 version!

Mini tub the front would be fairly easy! One of my buddies does a lot of fab work so I know I can get stuff modified if need be!

Modding the suspension and modding the motor at the same time because I couldn't decide between power and low :lol: still working on the 243 heads and nnbs intake swap hah
 
Basically what Eddie said.

I have a 3" exhaust on mine and it needs to be raised up a bit. It does hit on larger bumps/dips but I have enough room to raise it so it doesn't hit the axle anymore.
 
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