MBN1105 Bandsaw Rebuild
- Thread starter bggrnchvy
- Start date
I told myself I needed to not work on this at all, finish the Chevy first.
Well, it would be really handy to have this working for a few cuts if it was a simple fix. The problem being a non-running motor.
Symptoms were simply no start. The motor buzzes, but doesn't kick over and will freely turn. Starter contacts or start capacitor were the most likely culprits.
Motor in question. Original 1939 motor, built for W-T by Kingston-Conley as they were both based in New Jersey.
I wanted to check the internals no matter what and to make sure I did that and didn't get lazy I started there.
I scrapped the years of grease/sawdust away on the pulley to get to the set screws.
Pulled the pulley and then the cover after removing the 4 studs holding the caps on.
In decent shape. This is where I messed up though, forgot to take pictures going deeper. Other than giving the bearing a bit more grease (single side shielded), blowing and scrapping out debris and sanding the contacts to ensure continued operation I just took it apart and put it back together.
However this meant it was time to inspect the cap.
Cruddy looking, need to delve deeper.
Long since smoked.
I'll order a new 340uf + cap as soon as I can find one in a 2-1/8" OD. If I can't I might just make a liner for it from some Delrin to fit in the original housing.
Going to put it back together, paint it, blast the pulley and call it good. Provided it runs that is...
Well, it would be really handy to have this working for a few cuts if it was a simple fix. The problem being a non-running motor.
Symptoms were simply no start. The motor buzzes, but doesn't kick over and will freely turn. Starter contacts or start capacitor were the most likely culprits.
Motor in question. Original 1939 motor, built for W-T by Kingston-Conley as they were both based in New Jersey.
I wanted to check the internals no matter what and to make sure I did that and didn't get lazy I started there.
I scrapped the years of grease/sawdust away on the pulley to get to the set screws.
Pulled the pulley and then the cover after removing the 4 studs holding the caps on.
In decent shape. This is where I messed up though, forgot to take pictures going deeper. Other than giving the bearing a bit more grease (single side shielded), blowing and scrapping out debris and sanding the contacts to ensure continued operation I just took it apart and put it back together.
However this meant it was time to inspect the cap.
Cruddy looking, need to delve deeper.
Long since smoked.
I'll order a new 340uf + cap as soon as I can find one in a 2-1/8" OD. If I can't I might just make a liner for it from some Delrin to fit in the original housing.
Going to put it back together, paint it, blast the pulley and call it good. Provided it runs that is...
Nice I had the same thing happen to my compressor. I had to replace 3 caps i think it was like 35 a peice. looking good man keep us posted :shake:
Got the frame off the base.
Innards of the range box to reduce the fpm for metal.
After taking the 4 plates that make up the base apart it became clear why one of the plates didn't line up tight. It was dropped at some point and broke off two of the mounting ears.
I beveled, cleaned, pre-heated, tig'ed with 309, post heated and did a little mech stress relief. I overcooked the rod a bit burning it in, but it's fused pretty well.
i had one that was the same thing but smaller model.
The gears inside of mine striped out though,
The gears inside of mine striped out though,
I'm not sure how I would replace a contour saw with a circular saw, but more power to you.
Stoked to have a moderate sized vertical in the shop. Plate work with a plasma is dirty and takes a lot of cleanup.
Working on color choice and working on a big media blaster to make short work of all the sq. footage.
Stoked to have a moderate sized vertical in the shop. Plate work with a plasma is dirty and takes a lot of cleanup.
Working on color choice and working on a big media blaster to make short work of all the sq. footage.
it works well in my case because i cut more tubing then anything else.
if i have to do sheetmetal work, i go 5 min down the road to work and use the band saw, hydraulic shear, break, and punch if i need to.
if i have to do sheetmetal work, i go 5 min down the road to work and use the band saw, hydraulic shear, break, and punch if i need to.
I painted a couple test pieces by brush but I hit a snag with the sand blaster I was going to use to clean everything. More of an issue with the engine on the hardlined compressor than the blaster itself, but it's still stalled progress. We close on the house tomorrow and once this rain lets up I think I have another option locked down to get the metal clean and prepped.
Wire wheeled the body. Took a good bit of time, and it wasn't 100% bare metal, but I'm comfortable that it was a good surface for primer.
Red oxide primer for years of paint adhesion.
3 coats later.
I don't think they're going to be much help this time around. The saw is 75 years old this year.