Making an LBZ Look Halfway Decent on a Teenager's Budget

My 420s lasted fine with the exception of two being over inflated lol. But then again I haz half ton :shrug:


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With regards to the PCV valve and EGR delete. Together these "emissions" controls destroy the duramax. The oil vapors in the heads get vented through the PCV (tar), and into the intake to be burnt off. While this is going on the EGR detects for unburnt fuel or soot (feathers), and then feed that back through the intake. Both these typically take place when working the engine hard. You end up with a tar and feather effect that happens over and over. When I was at Danville he had an intake so caked that you couldn't even push a penny through the intake. Engine stained and turbo blow, took out whole engine.

also if you plan on getting EFILive tuning, they can shut off the EGR, toss in a blocker plate and be done with it. Only delete if 1) You have money to burn 2) you plan on making high HP.

Personally I think the Trans go Jr, is a waste of money. Just go full trans go. That way IF you ever decide to built the rest of the tranny, your have it already done.

I would just replace all filters, do sleeves and steering braces, and drive it.
 
Blocker plates leak a lot of the time. ... The turbo likes the nice bends and free flowing pipe over the cast piece to
 
J_Corr said:
With regards to the PCV valve and EGR delete. Together these "emissions" controls destroy the duramax. The oil vapors in the heads get vented through the PCV (tar), and into the intake to be burnt off. While this is going on the EGR detects for unburnt fuel or soot (feathers), and then feed that back through the intake. Both these typically take place when working the engine hard. You end up with a tar and feather effect that happens over and over. When I was at Danville he had an intake so caked that you couldn't even push a penny through the intake. Engine stained and turbo blow, took out whole engine.

also if you plan on getting EFILive tuning, they can shut off the EGR, toss in a blocker plate and be done with it. Only delete if 1) You have money to burn 2) you plan on making high HP.

Personally I think the Trans go Jr, is a waste of money. Just go full trans go. That way IF you ever decide to built the rest of the tranny, your have it already done.

I would just replace all filters, do sleeves and steering braces, and drive it.
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1brokekid said:
I'm in east Texas, and I see snow in that pic, so I doubt you are anywhere close.

And I never want NT420s, want to stay with a good tire that will last a while and be load rated. Not trying to make this truck fast in any way so a soft tire is useless.

And that never crossed my mind about the offset. But if I can still change the hub over to 8x180 for cheaper than the cost of spacers, I'm gonna do that. All up in the air though, as of now I have very little monies.


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You can change over to 8x180 for less than 180 bucks? That's what I got my 4 spacers for shipped
 
Cornell said:
You can change over to 8x180 for less than 180 bucks? That's what I got my 4 spacers for shipped
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In the rear I'm gonna run adapters for sure, but in the front if someone makes a hub in 8x180 that'll bolt into a factory spindle than it may be cheaper than the $90.

I may be more apt for a block off plate, I is very poor. Don't have the cash for the new pipe.


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Definitely no way to convert to 8x180 for cheaper. Ill just run the adapters lol.


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Ok, so I probably won't have the money for wheels/tires/drop until summer, I am gonna do all the cheap things first. The undercarriage on this truck is covered in surface rust. I'm gonna use a product called ospho to prep the entire chassis for paint, then use rustoleum brush on where I can, then rustoleum rattle cans where I can't get a brush. All gloss black. I hate working on nasty rusty trucks, and hate seeing that filthy nasty ass frame when I look at the truck. Ill start tomorrow, and post some pics of progress.


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cool cool i will do this once i have time and its warm out and i am definitely interested in this ospho product you speak of does it get ride of the rust ?
 
It converts the rust to a paintable surface, and it cleans the surface, on really light surface rust it'll get rid of the rust completely, used it on my 82 and loved it. You apply it by spray bottle and work it in with a scotchbrite i

i may use another product called evaporust too, it's a little trickier to use on big things. You're supposed to submerge the parts in it, but you can soak rags in the stuff and lay it on the surface, and its supposed to work. Used it on rusty nuts/bolts/ small parts on my 82 and it worked amazing. It literally dissolves the rust.


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I said rustoleum, but I may do a better product. On my 82 we used KBS coatings frame coater kit, and it was AMAZING. But it's expensive, and I'm trying to imitate it with cheaper products. O and ospho is pretty cheap, like 10 Dollars a bottle.


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that's cool definitely do a write up on how well it works and everything because i have some light ish rust on my frame of my truck because its been an Ontario truck for 6 years without any oil :facepalm: but anything to make it easier for me would be appreciated
 
J_Corr said:
With regards to the PCV valve and EGR delete. Together these "emissions" controls destroy the duramax. The oil vapors in the heads get vented through the PCV (tar), and into the intake to be burnt off. While this is going on the EGR detects for unburnt fuel or soot (feathers), and then feed that back through the intake. Both these typically take place when working the engine hard. You end up with a tar and feather effect that happens over and over. When I was at Danville he had an intake so caked that you couldn't even push a penny through the intake. Engine stained and turbo blow, took out whole engine.

also if you plan on getting EFILive tuning, they can shut off the EGR, toss in a blocker plate and be done with it. Only delete if 1) You have money to burn 2) you plan on making high HP.

Personally I think the Trans go Jr, is a waste of money. Just go full trans go. That way IF you ever decide to built the rest of the tranny, your have it already done.

I would just replace all filters, do sleeves and steering braces, and drive it.
Click to expand...



thought trans go was for 5 speed and trans go jr for 6 speed.
 
Molly said:
thought trans go was for 5 speed and trans go jr for 6 speed.
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You are kinda right...most people recommend a full transgo for 5 speed....jr for 6 speed. The 6 speed holes more power and the full transgo isn't worth it for the 6 speed. They make both for both trans AFAIK.


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J_Corr said:
Personally I think the Trans go Jr, is a waste of money. Just go full trans go. That way IF you ever decide to built the rest of the tranny, your have it already done.

I would just replace all filters, do sleeves and steering braces, and drive it.
Click to expand...

Trans go jr does allow for more power handling over a stock trans.

$75 vs $3,000... No way would I say.....a trans jr is a waste of money. Most people don't need a built trans if all they are running is a intake exhaust and EFI live. If you don't beat not you will be fine with transgo jr.


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