LS 5.3 Jeep YJ build
- Thread starter HankScorpio
- Start date
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Going OK the thin shit is hard as fuck to weld. Currently welding 18ga for the floor repairs. Patching rust sucks. Just when you think you cut all the rot out the welder tell you differently and burns the shit into nothingness. LOL
This is the other side that had no rot.
So I tried to get the motor and trans mounted today but the transmission mount is not part of the trans it goes on the trans adapter which I dont have yet. I ordered one off ebay for 29 buck shoyuld be here this week.
If you haven't got the outside patch panels in, send them back! Just boatside it instead. Would be way more functional
Mother fucker! I never knew you could do that. Shit I already have the panels but I might do that anyway.
Looks like it would be pretty easy. You could use 3/16" or 1/4" plate and looks like make a straight shot. Weld it to the floor and tub. Possibly tie it to the frame with bushings and you would have some really cool rock sliders that blend in with the body. I saw a jeep done similar to that 2 weeks ago and it was slick.
You could use some box tubing in the floor, weld your plate to it, and tie the box tubing into the frame. Are you going to be driving this where vibration will matter? Doing it the way below would induce some vibration into the chassis, but would be stout.
Although, maybe its overkill. I do see plenty of Jeeps with bolt on sliders that are just bolted to the sliders and they seem to take hits pretty well
You could use some box tubing in the floor, weld your plate to it, and tie the box tubing into the frame. Are you going to be driving this where vibration will matter? Doing it the way below would induce some vibration into the chassis, but would be stout.
Although, maybe its overkill. I do see plenty of Jeeps with bolt on sliders that are just bolted to the sliders and they seem to take hits pretty well
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Thought about doing the boatsides but I'm not going that route right now. I want keep the tub pretty much intact.
Are you using .030 wire on the sheetmetal?
Try .023, it needs a lot less power to melt and you can actually carry a bead on thicker sheetmetal, at the very least you can tack effectively. Another option that's really helpful, but spendy nowadays, is a copper backing bar. The copper both whicks the heat and allows a backing that won't fuse to the steel.
Try .023, it needs a lot less power to melt and you can actually carry a bead on thicker sheetmetal, at the very least you can tack effectively. Another option that's really helpful, but spendy nowadays, is a copper backing bar. The copper both whicks the heat and allows a backing that won't fuse to the steel.
Yes .030 on the sheet metal and its a bitch. I think they gave me a spool of .023 for free I will try it out. Never thought about the copper but it def makes sense. Thanks for the tips as usual Kyle :shake:
Definitely go to the thinner wire for that sheetmetal, and the copper trick definitely works. I have a $3 copper "welding spoon" with a handle from harbor freight, it comes in handy filling in holes in sheetmetal.
Those are nice, but you can make the same thing for cheaper. There's nothing to it except copper plate (or flattened copper tubing) and brazing/bolting a handle to it.
Alright so I have been real busy with work not much time for messing around but I did try and mount the crossmember thats suppose to be flush mount and the trans hits the body so I order these lift mounts and will also run a 1-2" BL on top of that depending on what I need. I will be raising the rear x member and lift the front mounts so everything will align again. Cut the mount off and finally went down to get the right receptical for the welders 230v plug. Leaving for Dallas and wont be around for a week. I might just tack all the mounts tomorow and fully weld when I get home. IDK not enough time in the day.
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