Important!: LED Bulb Replacement Guide

yeah two things... my 03 stock tan glovebox had the light in it. loaded lt truck. when i did the charcoal swap my new 04 glovebox doesnt have it. so look for the little light i think it is riight by the latch to the left or right. and on the switchbacks (if that is what you were talking about earlier) i cut the pin out of my fuse/ flasher module / whatever you want to call it. yes it ended hyperflashing but it did not let the white leds come back on for the switchbacks. i had to use resistors anyway. i can make a diagram if needed. BTW great thread,always pissed me off having to search lights on google and get the wrong answers.

okay heres my dogshit quality representation of my wiring. this is with switchbacks and the drl to turn mod like mine in my sig. the other side is the same im just too lazy to complete it :datass: the black box at the bottom is a 6ohm resistor. one on each side
 
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D1nman said:
paint_zpse09223d4.jpg
Click to expand...

Dat gym floor buffer and 2 lemons
 
So, I'm trying to wire in the 3-socket DRL to Parking/Turn light mod to my 2002 Sierra, and also install four of these:
Amazon.com: 2PCS White T20 10W 3156 3157 Cree Q5 Optical Projector 12SMD LED Brake Tail Light: Car Electronics
(btw, do not buy these, they are cheap as hell and nearly break at the base when putting into the sockets!)

and my shit is all whacked.

I already have led taillights and I believe 6ohm V-LED resistors wired into taillights, but how do I figure out what resistance resistors to wire into front? I have some 3ohm resistors sitting here that I misordered a year or so ago and never returned. Will they be enough since I am now essentially running 2 bulbs off of the parking/turn signal wires (1 more socket added inline to wires)?
Or will I need to order 2 more 6ohm?

how do I determine the resistance of those shitty amazon Cree LED's that I bought??

Also, the Dorman 3157 3-wire sockets I bought have ALL black wires, non are color coded at all, but on the back of the Socket itself it is labeled A / B / C
How do I know which is which so I can solder them correctly and put the resistor onto the correct wires?

And I was going to follow D1nman's highly detailed diagram above....
 
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^^

Dave,

I did something similiar on the front. Got tired of the DRL's, so I cut the harness, taped em up and tucked them out the way..

Then purchased these from amazon

Amazon.com: ACDelco LS92 Turn Signal Lamp Socket: Automotive

I was unsure how to wire up, so I looked at the oem turn signal, and put the left to left, middle to middle, right to right.

Had a weird problem with one side having a very light flash when blinking and of course the cluster freaking out like a burnt bulb or something. Added resistors to all of them ( since I too had 2 bulbs running of the same parking/turn signal wire.

I invested in this:

Amazon.com: Tridon LM487 Flasher: Automotive

All problems went away. My switchbacks work perfect. And no cluster problems. Gave my brother all of my resitors. F those things.

Hope thsi helps you some.
 
Yeah definitely helps, appreciate the links.

What year is your truck though? Want to be 110% sure that Tridon part will work for my 2002 before I lay down $36 and wait for the part to arrive just to see if it works.

Also what leaves me wondering is how your (and every other explanation it seems) switchbacks will differ from my Cree LEDs??


...and by the way, the sockets I got are Doorman 85881.
I bought four and will cut off the old burnt OE turn/park socket and will just solder on 2 new ones at a time on each side.
I'm also putting 194 amber LEDs in the corner lights too, but that shouldn't make a difference, right?
They are not coming on though. Is that caused by no resistors in Park lights...?
This electrical shit is bugging me bad, thought it would be so simple...
 
The 194s don't need resistors as they are so small, it doesn't mess with anything. Make sure you have them in the right way, they aren't like the incandescent bulbs. They need to have a specific positive and negative. Also, try pulling up on the bulbs every so slightly, and I've found pushing them all the way in causes them to not fire.

You don't need that flasher for your 02. Look in my original post about removing pin #7 from the IC chip in the flasher module. That is the bulb out indicator pin and causes hyperflash with leds. No resistors needed.

If you don't want to mess with the chip, use resistors. I deleted the drls on my 04 and used one 6ohm resistor per turn signal/2 leds. No hyperflash from that at all.

And what James said about the new sockets. Just line up left middle and right and soldered away.
 
Khaos said:
The 194s don't need resistors as they are so small, it doesn't mess with anything. Make sure you have them in the right way, they aren't like the incandescent bulbs. They need to have a specific positive and negative. Also, try pulling up on the bulbs every so slightly, and I've found pushing them all the way in causes them to not fire.

You don't need that flasher for your 02. Look in my original post about removing pin #7 from the IC chip in the flasher module. That is the bulb out indicator pin and causes hyperflash with leds. No resistors needed.

If you don't want to mess with the chip, use resistors. I deleted the drls on my 04 and used one 6ohm resistor per turn signal/2 leds. No hyperflash from that at all.

And what James said about the new sockets. Just line up left middle and right and soldered away.
Click to expand...


I hear ya on the 194s, I've installed quite a few LEDs in several different vehicles.
But my corner lights didn't work with any LEDs no matter orientation. Tried different led bulbs too. That's why I asked if it was related to the resistance issue... confused the heck out of me.

Also, just temporarily before I start soldering I just scotchloked the new Dorman 3wire socket on drivers side, just as James described, and now with turn signal on the OPPOSITE side flashes when I turn on my turn signal, my dash lights flash, my cab lights flash, both my taillights flash!?? Ha wtf!? Is that resistance, or are some wires on the 3 wire socket out of order?
They don't hyper flash, but they all flash!!??
Then when off, my turn signal indicator stays on solid on the dash. Just a solid green arrow.




Oh, and if I do that pin 7 mod, will I have to remove the resistor on the taillights?
 
No need to remove the resistor if you do the mod. No harm and it doesn't flash slower or anything.

The 194 issue is weird, I've never heard of that happening / experienced it.

What I did for the sockets was found power via test light/multimeter and tapped that, then just placed the other two wires on the connectors in the socket until it worked properly, then repeated it on the other side. I'd try that to see if you can correct the problem.

And I know exactly how you felt when all your lights started flashing. That slight drop in your stomach and an "aww fuck" is my response to messed up wiring :rofl:
 
Alright, so anyone know what causes the system to STOP blinking/flashing???
Is it too much load, like opposite of hyper flash??


When this occurs, I can hear the flasher module make a "honk" noise. Then indicator arrows stay on solid, and 194 corner lights go off and flashing stops all at once.
 
So, I soldered up 2 of the Dorman 3 wire sockets on each side.
I start plugging in these crappy Cree 7W 3157 bulbs and realize they are barely making electrical contact with their wires. So as I'm bending their contact wires (and keeping them oriented correctly, if turned 180deg. they don't work), to function properly and flash I realize that if all the lights come on, side facing SMT LEDs and front facing Cree Q5 LED, it makes the flasher module honk loud, then flashing stops and becomes solid light and the 194s turn off. But if I bend the wires eeeevvvver so slightly different then only the SMT sides come on solid but Cree is flashing as turn signal.
Now this was complete opposite of what I want. So I decided to swap brown and blue wires in the sockets to see if it would function as opposite.
But, it wasn't that easy apparently.
It just makes the Honking sound and stops all flashing completely.
Anyone have any ideas?

I want front facing Cree Q5 to be on all the time as parking type light, but then side facing SMT LEDs to come on as turn signal (along with my amber 194 corner lights, which already function this way fine...)
 
Khaos said:
The 194s don't need resistors as they are so small, it doesn't mess with anything. Make sure you have them in the right way, they aren't like the incandescent bulbs. They need to have a specific positive and negative. Also, try pulling up on the bulbs every so slightly, and I've found pushing them all the way in causes them to not fire.

You don't need that flasher for your 02. Look in my original post about removing pin #7 from the IC chip in the flasher module. That is the bulb out indicator pin and causes hyperflash with leds. No resistors needed.

If you don't want to mess with the chip, use resistors. I deleted the drls on my 04 and used one 6ohm resistor per turn signal/2 leds. No hyperflash from that at all.

And what James said about the new sockets. Just line up left middle and right and soldered away.
Click to expand...

My truck is a 2006.

I installed resistors in everything on the front, and even did the pin removal like Chris said, still hyperflashed. I purchased the Tridon and it solved all my issues. Now that you say it, I dont believe any of my side marker bulbs are working either. When the tridon flasher had everything working, I just removed the resistors and gave em to my brother.

Still unsure why my side marker bulbs dont work, but I can give a rats ass about that. At least my switchbacks work, but talking about it now is going to make me want to fix it.
 
Lol I've gotta replace a bulb on my truck, and I'm test fitting retros again Thursday. I'll send you pics of resistor install FFB


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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