info on bagging the shitwagon
- Thread starter Jared
- Start date
im putting the KP 6 link on the back of my truck. standard and solid kit, a little pricey but easy to install
on a crewcab it requires more work because of the front leaf spring hangers. still pretty easy but takes more time.
I'm still trying to decide how I want to do the rear setup.
The front I have been talking with Brett on options.
The front I have been talking with Brett on options.
mi kp 6 link lays lays brackets not frame. id get if i were jared though, so simple.. just dont forget the 2 piece driveshaft, raising the gas tank, and cutting the shit out of bed.... if u leave bed as giant hole people stop asking for your help to move
front suspension on the NBS trucks is fairly simple because the front suspension has very nice geometry stock. the key tire diameter is ~29". As long as you stay around this number or below it, you can keep the control arm mounting points stock without excessive tire wear from your camber curve (the amount of camber change you have throughout travel). On a 29" tire, you can get the alignment low enough that your camber won't be much at all laid out.
by far the cheapest setup that is good
McG 16+, shortened lowers, flipped uppers, and upper cups.
If you want to spend the money on aftermarket arms then MMW, ART, and KP are about the only options anymore because of the option above.
I would not waste the money unless you really wanted aftermarket arms
the easiest rear setup is by far the Ridetech air bar. The kit is 100% bolt on. Only ting necessary to make the kit lay is having a bigger notch welded in and moving to top bag bracket bar moved up higher. the F9000 sleeve bags ride awesome (these are what my new setup will have). this would be perfect for a truck like yours and with a tire size you have, the panhard bar is perfectly fine.
$1700 and comes with the bracket for the carry bearing for a 2 piece driveshaft, shocks, bags, and bolt in c notch(i'm sure you could sell).
I know it's $300 more than the KP kit, but it's far less work and if you ever decide to get rid of the truck, you can put the stock suspension back underneath it and keep the air ride.
Trying to make this as simple as possible for building a truck without a welder
Ridetech Airbar-$1700
Cup kit with bags-$300
We already talked about Accuair prices.
that will actually put you on air without needing a welder. grinder, sawzall, drill, wrenchs, etc.. garage tools is all that's needed.
your only fab work will be what it takes to lay. tranny crossmember, 2 piece driveshaft, bigger notch, gas tank crossmembers and tubbing. all of which can be done later down the rode when time or money allows unless the budget allows for it now, since you're only in $2000 on actual suspension pieces.
by far the cheapest setup that is good
McG 16+, shortened lowers, flipped uppers, and upper cups.
If you want to spend the money on aftermarket arms then MMW, ART, and KP are about the only options anymore because of the option above.
I would not waste the money unless you really wanted aftermarket arms
the easiest rear setup is by far the Ridetech air bar. The kit is 100% bolt on. Only ting necessary to make the kit lay is having a bigger notch welded in and moving to top bag bracket bar moved up higher. the F9000 sleeve bags ride awesome (these are what my new setup will have). this would be perfect for a truck like yours and with a tire size you have, the panhard bar is perfectly fine.
$1700 and comes with the bracket for the carry bearing for a 2 piece driveshaft, shocks, bags, and bolt in c notch(i'm sure you could sell).
I know it's $300 more than the KP kit, but it's far less work and if you ever decide to get rid of the truck, you can put the stock suspension back underneath it and keep the air ride.
Trying to make this as simple as possible for building a truck without a welder
Ridetech Airbar-$1700
Cup kit with bags-$300
We already talked about Accuair prices.
that will actually put you on air without needing a welder. grinder, sawzall, drill, wrenchs, etc.. garage tools is all that's needed.
your only fab work will be what it takes to lay. tranny crossmember, 2 piece driveshaft, bigger notch, gas tank crossmembers and tubbing. all of which can be done later down the rode when time or money allows unless the budget allows for it now, since you're only in $2000 on actual suspension pieces.
I have the spindles, and I think my helpers are those same bags, and that's what Wicked Mayhem ran. So I could keep my 275/45 tires for a while and not have too many issues? They are practically new, I bet I have less than 5k miles on them.
I'm not going to stress over $300 if the setup is better, I want it to be a budget build, but don't want to regret anything and end up replacing it later on. I was consider a 3 link from nfamus, but I don't know how to weld. My step-father is, but I don't know when he'll have time and he doesn't have a mobile welder currently.
I'm not going to stress over $300 if the setup is better, I want it to be a budget build, but don't want to regret anything and end up replacing it later on. I was consider a 3 link from nfamus, but I don't know how to weld. My step-father is, but I don't know when he'll have time and he doesn't have a mobile welder currently.
Nfamus 3 link would be a nice set up as well but requires the entire thing to be welded on and the frame pocketed for the bag unless you run a bag off the back of the axle to avoid pocketing the frame. It would be much cheaper if you can get the work done for cheap. otherwise it may just be cheaper to get just the essentials welded and do a bolt on kit yourself.
the whole reason I went with KP when I did it first was because it was cheaper than Ridetech and I was on a budget. I didn't have a welder or garage to do the work indoors. I took the bed off my truck and drove to a guy's house and welded the notch in and raised my rear gas tank crossmember. then drove back to my house and did everything else in the driveway. only thing I don't like about the KP kit is that it takes up a ton of space. If you run the Ridetech Airbar, you can mount the compressors on the outside of the frame behind the rear wheels and clear up a bunch more room under the bed. If you wanted a bigger tank or to just add another tank.
you could stay with those but when it came time for new ones, I'd go down to 275/40r20.
the whole reason I went with KP when I did it first was because it was cheaper than Ridetech and I was on a budget. I didn't have a welder or garage to do the work indoors. I took the bed off my truck and drove to a guy's house and welded the notch in and raised my rear gas tank crossmember. then drove back to my house and did everything else in the driveway. only thing I don't like about the KP kit is that it takes up a ton of space. If you run the Ridetech Airbar, you can mount the compressors on the outside of the frame behind the rear wheels and clear up a bunch more room under the bed. If you wanted a bigger tank or to just add another tank.
you could stay with those but when it came time for new ones, I'd go down to 275/40r20.
I run dual compressors and one 5 gallon tank but I don't play with mine at all. A common misconception with tanks is that because it says 5 gallons, doesn't mean its actually 5 gallons. most of them go off the dimensions. I'd run 2 slim 5 gallons.
I was wanting the slim ones, and I will eventually add a semi horn down the road so wanting the extra air, thanks man. I will pm you soon on accuair pricing.
alright man. If I can get a group buy going. even just 2 people I can get the price down. Jared :read:
That's not keeping simplicity or money in mind though. I can't tell you how many poor EDC vehicles I've had the luxury of dealing with. EDC are extremely nice, when installed properly and maintained, but an electric back up is an essential part of any edc system. So I would say, if you want an EDC setup, make sure you also have at least 1 Electric compressor for back up.