good alternator

and those rebuilders take cores, so if anything, bring in the 105, and have a larger case used to assist in keeping it cool. Those big companies aren't doing anything different than a local shop can do. You two are making it to be bigger than what it really is. We are talking about Juan's truck here.
 
Jared said:
and those rebuilders take cores, so if anything, bring in the 105, and have a larger case used to assist in keeping it cool. Those big companies aren't doing anything different than a local shop can do. You two are making it to be bigger than what it really is. We are talking about Juan's truck here.
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no, you need to realize that kind of load you are putting on a stock alternator that wasn't even originally able to handle anything near that. its expensive to have it rewound, up to a $ per amp, and for a little more you can have the peace of mind of a brand new alt with more output and a better warranty. rattron has some good alts, DB electrical, that wont break the bank
 
im not saying he needs a $500 gold plated alt, its about stability in the long run and getting what you paid for
 
and yes jared, i completely agree with you on no to a $500 alt, im talking more in the high 200's to $350 MAX
 
juan, just go with the stock 140 amp alt, its plenty for what your needing, especially with 2 good batteries. im runnin the 105 no problem
 
Cheeny23 said:
rattron has some good alts, DB electrical, that wont break the bank
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Up until this point I was with you. DB Electrical alternators were nothing but shitty for me. Buying a cheap HO alternator or getting a stock one rebuilt is about the same boat.

It doesn't matter how many subs or how many amps you're running. you have to look at how much amperage the amplifiers are pulling. for instance 2 amps pulling 50 amps each and 1 amp pulling 100 amps will have the same draw on the battery.

Juan, you need to look at all the extras that you've already added and you're thinking of adding. add the current draws together and thats how much you need to add to the factory alternator rating to get the alternator you need. I will say this. I have a DC Power 270XP alternator with all my air management and audio extras and with my compressors running audio going, voltage doesn't even budge with the truck just idling.
 
Tukn4s said:
Up until this point I was with you. DB Electrical alternators were nothing but shitty for me. Buying a cheap HO alternator or getting a stock one rebuilt is about the same boat.

It doesn't matter how many subs or how many amps you're running. you have to look at how much amperage the amplifiers are pulling. for instance 2 amps pulling 50 amps each and 1 amp pulling 100 amps will have the same draw on the battery.

Juan, you need to look at all the extras that you've already added and you're thinking of adding. add the current draws together and thats how much you need to add to the factory alternator rating to get the alternator you need. I will say this. I have a DC Power 270XP alternator with all my air management and audio extras and with my compressors running audio going, voltage doesn't even budge with the truck just idling.
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Good point Brett...thanks brotha..will do that
 
Cheeny23 said:
and yes jared, i completely agree with you on no to a $500 alt, im talking more in the high 200's to $350 MAX
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Good luck with its output and reliability. Unless you're getting "hooked up", you're gonna be in it for more than that most likely. I'm entertaining the idea of another alternator place I've come across, but I dont' wanna say anything till I get one and test it.

Tukn4s said:
Up until this point I was with you. DB Electrical alternators were nothing but shitty for me. Buying a cheap HO alternator or getting a stock one rebuilt is about the same boat.

It doesn't matter how many subs or how many amps you're running. you have to look at how much amperage the amplifiers are pulling. for instance 2 amps pulling 50 amps each and 1 amp pulling 100 amps will have the same draw on the battery.

Juan, you need to look at all the extras that you've already added and you're thinking of adding. add the current draws together and thats how much you need to add to the factory alternator rating to get the alternator you need. I will say this. I have a DC Power 270XP alternator with all my air management and audio extras and with my compressors running audio going, voltage doesn't even budge with the truck just idling.
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He makes a good point, for the most part. The amperage rating on the amps is a maximum draw number, so if you aren't pushing them that hard, you'll have less and therefore require less. Having more than required never hurt. I will second his statement on DB Electrical also. Friend of mine got a 250 amp, tested it doing 105 just like his stock. He developed noise in the system, send it back under warranty and got another. New one did 130 amps, lasted 8 months or so and now his noise is back and charging high so we know the voltage regulator is going out. It's my understanding they take stock alts, drop a high output stator in it and push it out the door without upgrading anything else in it.
 
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