For all of your Bagging needs.
- Thread starter BigBoi
- Start date
wouldn't run a panhard, would run a watts, the 3 link is self locating but imo it puts alot of torque on the bushings hence why i would run a watts or similar, you dont want a panhard because it will still push and pull side to side and it will fight the 3link
Wishbone 3 link does not need either
The triangulated fashion of the wishbone itself and the straight lower links work against each other to keep the truck axle centered just like in a triangulated 4 link. the difference in a triangulated 4 link and a wishbone 3 link is 1 bushing. the force per bushing isn't even increased by 5% between a triangulated 4 link and wishbone 3 link. when driving a truck with a wishbone 3 link, the shift you feel when cornering comes from the body roll. the panhard bar/watts link help keep this down like a sway bar buy connecting the chassis to the axle.
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Sweet.
Opinions on the nfamus notch? Reason I'm asking these questions is because the nfamus wishbone comes with notch and bag brackets. Kp parallel 4 doesn't come with any of that and is substantially more expensive and requires a $175 panhard.
Opinions on the nfamus notch? Reason I'm asking these questions is because the nfamus wishbone comes with notch and bag brackets. Kp parallel 4 doesn't come with any of that and is substantially more expensive and requires a $175 panhard.
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I went from the kp 6 link to a wishbone and I love my decision. Also, I do run a panhard bar on my truck. Its 40" long, I have 7.5" of lift. panhard bar pulls my axle .1322" at fully laid out and at full lift. I also Installed superpivots at the frame points when I decided to add the panhard, before the unknowledgeable start trying to attack.
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You need to write and publish books lol.
So my decision now is to get the wishbone 3. I'll add a panhard later on if the bodyroll is too horrible.
Nfamus notch and bag brackets are good?
So my decision now is to get the wishbone 3. I'll add a panhard later on if the bodyroll is too horrible.
Nfamus notch and bag brackets are good?
Don't wanna make a new thread and my question is kinda bagging related.
On the inside of my rear fenders there's a lip that sticks out towards the inside (lip is 90° off the bedside). It looks like it will contact my tire when layed out. What can I do about it? Can I just bend it up flush against the bedside? Cut it off?
On the inside of my rear fenders there's a lip that sticks out towards the inside (lip is 90° off the bedside). It looks like it will contact my tire when layed out. What can I do about it? Can I just bend it up flush against the bedside? Cut it off?
Just roll that little piece up? The fender is good. Just a little lip that goes inside back towards the frame.
si u can either roll it with a baseball bat between that lip and the tire, or get that eastwood tool, they used to have a nice pneumatic one that was like $200 but i couldn't find it, im not sure how i feel about that new tool watching the video seemed like it was no bueno
I might cut a slit into that lip on the bottom of the front and back of the wheel well so that piece will fold up easier and more flush.
That statement makes no sense but I can't figure out how to word it lol
That statement makes no sense but I can't figure out how to word it lol
Yea. I haven't started anything. Waiting til I start getting parts so that I way I won't bitch out and have a half hacked, stock truck lol
if your going to do the baseball bat thing do it with the inner fenders welded in still, when i h ad mine done they pulled the fucking driver side fender out an extra 1/2" :facepalm:
the old eastwood tool used to be like a set of modified vice grips with rubber pads, it had a wider pad on the outside 2-3" and a narrow pad for the inside 1/2-1" i liked that one, but they had to switch to this new thing for some reason :think: