Need help diagnosing an engine sputter/hesitation

Chris.G.Jr.

Chris.G.Jr.

New member
Apr 29, 2012
714
0
0
32
Bartlesville, Oklahoma
So as some may know i got my truck finished yesterday swapping an engine in (replacement 350)

anyway it starts and runs but i put it in gear and give it some gas and she just bogs and sluggishly starts to move, it kind of sputters a bit til it unchokes itself and moves


Forgot to add that when i was driving it i turned and straightened the truck out and when i gave it gas it sputtered and died, stopped and put it in park and restarted it

I made sure all the plug wires were on tight, nothings unhooked.

also not sure whats up with the oil pressure being high?

I know the videos are hd or amazing quality, also exhaust is soon to be changed

Heres a video of it idling


and a video of driving. (sorry not very good at holding a camera while trying to concentrate on driving since i have no signals (need to put in new multifunciton switch.)



Anyways anyone got an idea? not sure if its a misfire or the timing off?
 
Last edited:
Hard to tell in that video exactly how bad it's bogging. But my first guess would be needing a fuel filter. Also could have an injector or both clogged or going bad. Does it ever knock or sound like it's detonating or is it just purely bogging?
 
Huck said:
Hard to tell in that video exactly how bad it's bogging. But my first guess would be needing a fuel filter. Also could have an injector or both clogged or going bad. Does it ever knock or sound like it's detonating or is it just purely bogging?
Click to expand...

No knock, just bogging, replaced fuel filter when we swapped the engine (i know for a fact thats new bc i installed it)

I read in my chilton/hayne manual that when adjusting the timing there is a wire thats supposed to be unplugged while adjusting........we never unplugged it so we may attempt the adjustment again with the wire unplugged since it shouldnt be hard to find under the dash/glovebox.......
 
Oh yeah, I remember one of the guys mentioning that in your other thread. Give that a shot, very well could be that the timing's just off.
 
Huck said:
Oh yeah, I remember one of the guys mentioning that in your other thread. Give that a shot, very well could be that the timing's just off.
Click to expand...

Yeah tyler got the info to me before the words came out of my mouth haha, were going to try the timing again tomorrow with the wire disconnected and see how she reacts.

Fiesty said:
Check fuel pressure. Could be a bad regulator.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip! Ill definitely check that as well!!
 
On my 88 that wire was under the hood by the firewall on the right side of the truck, for tbi IIRC factory timing is 0*. Guy I used to work with is tbi wiz ill ask him what he sets it at, I want to say +2* and they start better but ill find out for sure.
 
Cant help you on shop but,

Id check see if you have a bad knock sensor, if a knock sensor is giving a false postive it could be pulling timing and causing a bad hesitation.
Also o2 sensors.

misfire would cause a flashing CEL

high oil pressure is not always good, If the oil journeys are clogged it could greatly increase the pressure. Maybe try a thinner oil next go round. 5-30 are so.
 
Samuel6731 said:
Cant help you on shop but,

Id check see if you have a bad knock sensor, if a knock sensor is giving a false postive it could be pulling timing and causing a bad hesitation.
Also o2 sensors.

misfire would cause a flashing CEL

high oil pressure is not always good, If the oil journeys are clogged it could greatly increase the pressure. Maybe try a thinner oil next go round. 5-30 are so.
Click to expand...

Well i found a shop and the guy seems like a genuine and relaxed guy told me to bring it up tomorrow morning and he had just fired someone and said we could both look take a look at it so he seems like a nice guy, as far as the oil i run 5w30 in it all the time, i noticed after i changed the oil yesterday it went down a bit, pretty sure the crate engine came with a high volume oil pump or whatever and it hasnt been leaking or acting funny other then the main problem with the egr or whatever, but ill for sure find out tomorrow!
 
Samuel6731 said:
Info updates?

Find the culprit?
Click to expand...

slicksierra said:
Turn up the timing on dat bitch


Sent from my potato
Click to expand...

Took it in this morning and the guy confirmed that when you unplug the egr it goes away but it throws the CEL on and runs great! Plug the egr valve back in and the problem comes back, he said sometimes they stick open and dont close, said to go up to the dealership and grab a new egr valve and put it on, i asked him what do i owe ya and he said nothing! Was in and out of there in 20 minutes pretty awesome shop (Able Auto Repair) went to dealership and they want 143 for an egr valve!!!
When we initially installed the egr valve we put the washer in there (were unsure which to use) so when i got home i pulled the egr valve off and pulled the washer out put the valve back on plugged it in and still didnt fix it, tried multiple solutions, looping the hose from solenoid to valve back to the solenoid threw code ran fine, so the solution must be swap out the egr valve....kinda iffy about it cause i could just get burned again and get another crap valve.

Thought about egr delete kit but then i have to tune it out and not really sure the advantages and disadvantages of it, tbh the truck runs amazing without the valve plugged it, i ran the truck like that before on the original engine bc the valve was crap and had the CEL on for a while and never replaced it til the new motor went in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom