Install rear power sliding window (RCSB, or likely any cab for that matter)

[Oktain]

To make a short story long, I could never understand why RCSB's were never available with some sort of sliding window. I tried optioning my truck with one but was told NO. So when a clapped out ex-construction supervisor's truck hit the Kenny-U-Pull lot, I dragged my old man out to the yard to cut this sucker out.
Armed with a vision, and a Princess Auto (Harbor Freight, but with maple syrup) cable and T-handle window removal tool, we set off on our quest.

SUCCESS - NOTE: Grab the overhead console panel that contains the factory switch, and keep the factory harness pigtail on the motor as well.


Next step was to prep my truck.

I carefully removed the seats, B pillar covers, trim on the rear wall, carpet, and sound deadening.

The key to this was having a buddy of mine come and remove the old glass with a cold knife. Why a buddy? He's the 2nd generation owner of a glass shop, and has been doing this type of work for as long as he could hold a cold knife. Otherwise, I would really suggest leaving this next part to a professional. NO WAY could I have done as nice of a job.







I mounted the window with rivnuts to finalize the "mechanical" install

 

[Oktain]

Next was wiring. Now, I'm pretty good with 12V DC, and I find wiring projects to be pretty therapeutic, but I saved myself lots of time and referred to this video on Youtube on how to wire up a power window motor with a 3 pole swtich (which the factory switch essentially is)

The KEY, is to understand that the relays that you purchase, may not match the colour coding that he's using in his demonstration - REFER TO THE PIN NUMBERS



I pulled all of my power for this from the interior fuse panel using 2 Micro2 fuse Add-A-Circuits.


Relay PIN 30 - each wired to a lead on the motor
Relay PIN 87 - Both wired to 15a fused circuit (Add-a-circuit in the 15A Spare slot of interior fuse panel)
Relay PIN 87a - Both wired to ground
Relay PIN 86 - Both wired to 5a. This is the power that the switch will use to trigger the relays (Add-a-circuit in the RAP [Retained accessory power] fuse slot)
Relay PIN 85 - each relay wired to one "output" lead on the switch.
SWITCH - "common" lead wired to ground.

If you're using the OEM GM switch, the PURPLE, or VIOLET wire is the "common", and that will be wired to ground.
WHITE, and YELLOW w/ VIOLET Tracer are your "output" leads. Wire your PIN 85 from the 2 relays to each of these. If you feel the switch is "backwards" once it's all wired up, then flip the wires here. I'm set up for push-to-open, and pull-to-close, but just do whatever makes sense for you.

Final result:

While I was in there too, the top bolt ended up being a perfect mounting location for my shallow sub box, so I threw that in there too. (left over bracket for a sound bar mount I had kicking around)

Videos showing the end result, BEFORE reassembly.

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And the final product: The rear panel had to be trimmed to clear the lower track of the window. I took my time with a pair of sheet metal sheers that were actually sharp and cut about an inch off everywhere that the track interfered with the panel. I had a small body filler rasp kicking around too that I used to smooth out the cuts after, and it came out pretty clean. Take your time here!


All in all, this is a SUPER worthwhile mod. Took the truck out for a highway drive last night and all the way up to 75+mph, I had the windows down and was just chilling comfortably. I could never do that in this truck before. Also, with the window open you get to hear your exhaust that much more lol.

 

[Huck]

Man, I wanna put a slider in my blue truck just for the smooth air you get but I like the look of a solid glass soo much better. This came out so good on yours

 

[Oktain]

Man, I wanna put a slider in my blue truck just for the smooth air you get but I like the look of a solid glass soo much better. This came out so good on yours

Thanks man! I'm thinking of getting these chrome covers for the textured panels, and wrapping them black.