I didnt take many pictures because I was in a hurry and needed to get done but I can give you a list of steps and things needed to be done to install it.
Part Numbers
GM Part # 12628771 - GM LS1 F-Body oil pan, gasket, stock baffle, drain plug and mounting hardware
GM Part # 12551581 - GM LS1 F-Body dip stick
GM Part # 12551577 - GM LS1 F-Body dip stick tube
GM Part # 12558251 - GM LS1 F-Body oil pickup tube and o-ring
GM Part # 12558253 - GM LS1 F-Body deflector
GM Part # 12612350 - LS-series engine oil pan gasket
Now for the steps...
First off you can start draining the oil, and while its draining you can go ahead and unhook your battery cables.
Once all the oil is drained go ahead and take the starter off, then drop the big support crossmember down and lay it to the side, next loosen the passenger side of the rack and pinion and let it drop down alittle.
Now start removing all the oil pan bolts and after that you should be able to drop it down, but there are some plastic clips on the front of the pan that you will need to pop loose and I just removed the whole piece.
Next you will need to remove the pickup tube, there are two bolts in the back and a smaller one behind the windage tray that you will need to take out. Once out start removing the windage tray bolts and drop it down.
Now clean the area where your new LS1 pan will seal and start installing the new parts. Windage tray first then the pickup tube. Then I recommend installing the new dip stick/tube you might need to modify it so that it will slide in right but otherwise its bolt up. (Chads dad installed it while I messed with the oil pan underneath.)
Now before installing the new oil pan take and unscrew the piece that the oil filter screws onto out of your old pan and install it onto the new pan. (If you can find a filter that fits it then you dont have to do this but mine wouldnt fit and it was 12AM so this was the next best thing for me).
The rusty piece is what I had to change to make the stock filter screw on and the new filter I got that fit a LS1 camaro. It easy to remove the one on the new pan the old one was a different story. This one has a place for a wrench to slide on to remove it, the stock one has to have a big bit put inside of it then remove it. Ill update with pictures of the stock one...
Now install the new pan and get everything tightened down. This is where the fun starts, you will need to hold your crossmember up and mark how much you will have to notch it to make it bolt back in place. And once done trimming you will need to reweld some metal on top of it and to the sides. After that just bolt it back into place and you should be all done.
Install new oil filter and start putting in your new oil, I got a 5 quart jug and thought that would be enough but ive since put another quart in and still alittle low so get 7 quarts to be safe.
The oil pan and trans sit perfectly flush and it gave me atleast 3" of added clearance for someone planning to bodydrop that wants to drop the engine/trans down so they wont have to cut as much on the firewall. Now if you do plan to body drop I think a custom crossmember would be needed so you coulf give yourself more room to drop engine lower but keep it high off the ground so it didn't drag, some of the bagged guys can chime in and add some info. But that's all there is to a LS1 oil pan swap.
Colyn.
Part Numbers
GM Part # 12628771 - GM LS1 F-Body oil pan, gasket, stock baffle, drain plug and mounting hardware
GM Part # 12551581 - GM LS1 F-Body dip stick
GM Part # 12551577 - GM LS1 F-Body dip stick tube
GM Part # 12558251 - GM LS1 F-Body oil pickup tube and o-ring
GM Part # 12558253 - GM LS1 F-Body deflector
GM Part # 12612350 - LS-series engine oil pan gasket
![ba3uga6e.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/ba3uga6e.jpg)
![esavuten.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/esavuten.jpg)
![yje8ady4.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/yje8ady4.jpg)
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![buhyga6e.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/buhyga6e.jpg)
![gyvurugy.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/gyvurugy.jpg)
![adypu6up.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/adypu6up.jpg)
![9yvanuse.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/9yvanuse.jpg)
![a9aru3yj.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/a9aru3yj.jpg)
![verasazy.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/verasazy.jpg)
Now for the steps...
First off you can start draining the oil, and while its draining you can go ahead and unhook your battery cables.
Once all the oil is drained go ahead and take the starter off, then drop the big support crossmember down and lay it to the side, next loosen the passenger side of the rack and pinion and let it drop down alittle.
Now start removing all the oil pan bolts and after that you should be able to drop it down, but there are some plastic clips on the front of the pan that you will need to pop loose and I just removed the whole piece.
Next you will need to remove the pickup tube, there are two bolts in the back and a smaller one behind the windage tray that you will need to take out. Once out start removing the windage tray bolts and drop it down.
Now clean the area where your new LS1 pan will seal and start installing the new parts. Windage tray first then the pickup tube. Then I recommend installing the new dip stick/tube you might need to modify it so that it will slide in right but otherwise its bolt up. (Chads dad installed it while I messed with the oil pan underneath.)
Now before installing the new oil pan take and unscrew the piece that the oil filter screws onto out of your old pan and install it onto the new pan. (If you can find a filter that fits it then you dont have to do this but mine wouldnt fit and it was 12AM so this was the next best thing for me).
![ehupeqes.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/ehupeqes.jpg)
The rusty piece is what I had to change to make the stock filter screw on and the new filter I got that fit a LS1 camaro. It easy to remove the one on the new pan the old one was a different story. This one has a place for a wrench to slide on to remove it, the stock one has to have a big bit put inside of it then remove it. Ill update with pictures of the stock one...
Now install the new pan and get everything tightened down. This is where the fun starts, you will need to hold your crossmember up and mark how much you will have to notch it to make it bolt back in place. And once done trimming you will need to reweld some metal on top of it and to the sides. After that just bolt it back into place and you should be all done.
![yjyparug.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/yjyparug.jpg)
![e3udapur.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/e3udapur.jpg)
![8u7u9u8e.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/8u7u9u8e.jpg)
![edezybum.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/edezybum.jpg)
![ebaze2ev.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/ebaze2ev.jpg)
![8e8a8e5y.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/8e8a8e5y.jpg)
![2u8uty5u.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/2u8uty5u.jpg)
Install new oil filter and start putting in your new oil, I got a 5 quart jug and thought that would be enough but ive since put another quart in and still alittle low so get 7 quarts to be safe.
The oil pan and trans sit perfectly flush and it gave me atleast 3" of added clearance for someone planning to bodydrop that wants to drop the engine/trans down so they wont have to cut as much on the firewall. Now if you do plan to body drop I think a custom crossmember would be needed so you coulf give yourself more room to drop engine lower but keep it high off the ground so it didn't drag, some of the bagged guys can chime in and add some info. But that's all there is to a LS1 oil pan swap.
Colyn.
Last edited: